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THE 


COUNTRY  DYER'S 


ASSISTANT. 


By  ASA  ELLIS,  JuN. 


Brook^ielej  (Massachusstts  c) 
JPRINT£D  »Y  E.  MERK.IAM  (^  Co, 
For  xaa  Auxaox, 


DuTMCToy  Ma>uacmu«stt«  District, to  wit^ 
XjE  it  remembered,  That  on  the  thirteentK 

day  of  November,  in  the  twenty-thirdyearof  the  In- 
dependence of  the  United  States  of  America,  ASA 
ELLIS,  J  UN.  of  the  faid  diftrift,  hath  dcpofited  in 
this  Office,  the  title  of  a  Book,  the  right  whereof  he 
claims  as  Author,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit. 
«*The  country  DYER'S  ASSISTANT,  by  A. 
SA  ELLIS,  juN." 

In  conformity  to  the  Aft  of  the  Congrefs  of  the 
United  Slates,  entitled  "  An  A£l  for  the  Encourage- 
ment of  Learning,  by  fecuring  the  Copies  of  Maps, 
Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors 
of  luch  Copies,  during  the  time  therein  mentioned." 
N.  GOOD  ALE,  Clerk  of  the  DiJlriS! 

of  Majfachufctti  DipiS*^ 
A  true  Copy  oj  Record.  1 

Atte/if  N.GooDALE,  Clerkly 


JNTJiODUCaON. 


In  fuch  a  country  as  Americas 
efpccially  the  northern  ft ates,  which  abound 
in  Sheep,  the  art  of  dying  wool  is  of  high 
importance.  Wer«  the  art  fuitably  culti- 
vated, we  fhould  not  only,  by  induftry,  fat- 
isfy  our  curiofi'tv  upon  that  raw  material  i 
but  prevent  an  extenlivc  and  needlefs  impor- 
tation ;  and  of  confequence  retain  our  mon- 
ey in  our  own  country.  The  art  of  dying 
ia  an  ufeful  branch  of  chymiHry.  Its  influ- 
ence on  the  fale  of  all  ftuflPs  ufed  for  furniture, 
orapparrel,  has  been  felt  by  almoft  all  Eu- 
rope, who  have  been  enriched  by  it,  efpe- 
cially  England. 

But  few  people,  in  America,  eflimate  th©- 
value of  manufadlured  woollens,  of^heir  own 
country.     We  too  generally  reforf,  for  our 
cloths,  to  the  manufafturies  of  Europe. 

With  regard  to  our  own  manuf'dure  of 
croih,   women  and  children  coa-imonly  die- 
Aa. 


ri  INTRODUCTION. 

tate  the  colours  to  te  imprefl  upon  them. 
But  they  frequently  make  an  injudicious 
choice  J  the  colour  which  they  didate  faces ; 
the  coat  is  fpoiled,  is  thrown  afide,  or  given 
to  Jack  the  garden  boy,  and  poor  little 
Tomnpy  muH  have  a.  new  one. 

True  colours  retain  the  complexion  that  is 
impreft  on  goods.  Falfe  ones,  on  wearing 
and  being  expofed  to  the  fun  and  air,  lofe 
all  their  original  tints ;  and  of  confequencc 
the  goods  are  fo  much  injured,  as  to  render 
them  unfailable. 

The  government  of  France  were  early 
fenfible  of  this,  and  fonrcd  Ipecial  regula- 
tions to  improve  the  art  of  dying.  They 
employed  their  moft  able  chymifts  to  infpeii 
the  dyers,  and  to  mark  a  dlflinflion  between 
the  true  and  the  falfe  dyes.  Thofe  whopro- 
feffcd  the  srt  \\ere  of  confequence,  diftin- 
guifhed  by  the  epithets  of  the  true  and  of  the 
falfe  dyers  i  The  former  were  encouraged ; 
the  latter  were  laid  under  particular  re- 
ftraints.  The  deHgn  of  gover.nmenfj  in  thefe 
regulation?,  was  to  improve  the  art  and  en- 


INTRODUCTION.  vii 

rich  thcif  nation.     By  this  wife  interferince 
of  authority,  France  realized  both  objedls. 

Too  many  dyers  of  this  country,  have  pxe- 
cluded  themfelves  from  improvement.  Qon- 
fining  themfvilves  to  incorrect  Recipes,  they 
have  r.eglcded  experiments,  and  other  gen- 
eral means  of  infoi  mation. 

A  circumftantial  detail %f  experiments, 
with  their  various  refults,  is,  in  this  fmall  vol- 
ume, prefented  to  the  country  dyers.  In  the 
following  work,  I  have  endeavored  to  be 
plain  and  intelligible  to  all  who  can  clean  the 
copper,  or  turn  the  reel. 

Not  only  thofe  who  profefs  the  art,  but 
private  families  may  embrace  the  advantages 
of  the  following  inftru6lions,  and  colour  their 
own  yam  ofwooUen,  worfled  and  thread,  and 
fmall  pieces  of  filk,  as  beautifully,  as  the  dy- 
ers. This  will  fave  families  much  expenfe, 
and  dyers,  in  general,  do  not  wifh  to  be  bur- 
dcneJ,  with  fuch  fmall  commands,. 

This  publication,  prefented  to  the  coun- 
try dyers,  is  the  refult  of  twenty  ye^rs  prac- 
tice, clofe  lludy,  fair  trials,  unwearied  pains 
and  expenfe. 


viii,  INTRODUCTION. 

The  author  fldtters  himlclf  that  Itic  {hall 
avoid  the  imputation  of  vanity,  while  he  en- 
tertains a  confiJence  that  ihe  following  in- 
ftru6lions,  will  be  of  public  utility,  and  of 
fervice  to  many  of  his  brcihren  in  the  art  of 
dying. 

Brookfidd)  Dee,  1798. 


9-4X  >*»H<X»«X  ^oJ>«X»0«KXX»«a«SXX  >&*if'K><X»0<  xx><x 

«    H    B 

COUNTRY  DYE  11^3 

ASSISTANT. 


CHAP.     I. 

0/  PV/^/i  ^/^^  Utenfils  employed  in  dying. 


OUR  dye-houfe  fliould  be  fix- 
ieen  or  twenty  feec  fquare;  well  furnifhed 
with'  light  and  pl:iced  near  a  ftrearn;  water 
being  efTentially  necclTary  for  preparing  your 
clothe,  and  for  rinfirg  them  when  dyed. 
Ih©  floor  fhould  be  made  of  ieached  alhes, 
as  it  will  foon  beconne  hard  and  render  you 

"lore  fccure  from  fiie. 
Your  copper,  or  coppers  fliould  he  fitu- 

.!:ed  near  the  centre  of  the  houfe  j   anc^^the 
i;Iue  var,  about  fix  feet  from  the  copper,  in 

.  hich  you  intend  to  heat  the  blue  die. 


i«r  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

The  fizc  of  your  blue  vat  will  be  in  pro- 
portion to  the  bufinefs  you  expefl.  The 
common  fize  and  dlmenfions  are  as  follow; 
\j^it  Ihould  be  five  feet  deep,  three  feet  di- 
ameter at  the  top,  and  twenty  inches  at  the 
bottom..  Place  your  v&t  two  feet  in  the 
earth,  for  the  fake  of  convcniency ;  obfervc 
that  it*  cover  fit  clofe. 

The  ftaves  of  your  vat  (hould  be  one  inch 
and  and  a  half  thick,  bound  wiih  iron  hoops. 
Wooden  dnes  will  do,  but  you  will  find  them 
more  cxpenfive  than  iron,  they  will  foon 
fail,  and  perhaps  the  vat  will  fpring  a  leak 
and  youloofe  your  dye  before  it  is  perceived. 

It  is  necelT^ry  to  have  a  hoop,  with  a  net 
flretched  over  it,  that  will  fink  within  your 
vat.  This  hoop  fhould  be  fufpended  about 
two  feet  from  the  bouom  of  the  vat,  by  four 
fmall  cords  fattened  at  the  top  of  the  vat. 
The  defign  is  to  keep  your  cloth,  while  col- 
ouring, from  the  grounds,  or  fedament,  which 

lies  at  the  bottom. 

A   dyer's  rake  is  alfo  neccffary.  It  is  made 

in  the  ftiapc  of  a^^urn-dafh,  with  the  excep- 
tion only  that  it  fhould  be  a  femicircle,  or 


ASSISTANT,  It 

.laVf  round.  The  foot  piece  fhould  be  about 
twelve  inches  diameter,  with  three  or  four 
holes  through  it,  and  a  ftifF  handle  inferted, 
five  feet  long. 

Further,  a  ftick  fhould  be  put  acrofs  your 
vtt,  about  one  inch  below  the  furface  of  the 
dye,  in  order  to  draw  the  cloth  over,  when 
colouring  j  and  you  will  reed  two  flicks  a- 
bout  a  foot  long  with  hooks  at  one  end,  to 
hall  your  cloth,  when  in  the  dye  j  for  it 
will  be  inconvenient  to  hall  it  with  your 
hands.    Tenter  hooks  will  anfwcr  the  purpofe. 

Thefe  dire£lions,  for  the  vat,  are  the  befi- 
I  knov/ ;  as  it  was  remarked,  you  can  con- 
form its  dimenfions,  to  the  bufinef*;,  for 
which  you  wifh  to  employ  it. 

A  copper,  or  caldron  is  neceflary  for  all 
dyers.  The  bufmefs  canr.dt  be  carried  oa 
without  one  or  more  of  them.  Your  larcyeft 
ccpper  lliould  contain  fixty,  or  fever.ty  %zU 
Ions.  It  fhou'd  be  fct  in  a  brick  furnace; 
becaufe  that  will  heat  your  copper  fooner. 
The  top  of  the  furnace,  which  enclofes  the 
copper  ought  to  be  fix  inches  thick,  fo  that 


li  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

you  may  plank  the  brick  work,  and  nail  the 
lip  of  the  copper  to  the  plank  and  plaifter  of 
the  furnace.  Then  your  copper4  with  care, 
can  be  kept  clean,  which  is  abfolutely  necef- 
fary.  ^ -. 

An  iron  caldron  is  rery  convenient,  in  a 
dye-houfe  to  boil  Logwood  and  other  dye- 
fluffs  i  there  are  many  ufes,  in  which  it  will 
be  employed ;  the  benefit  of  one  would 
foon  pay  you  iof  puchafing  it.  A  fmall 
kettle  will  anfwer,  but  it  is  inconvenient, 
•  A  reel,  or  winch  isnecelTary;  it  is  made 
of  a  piece  of  timber  two  inches  fquare  and 
long  enough  to  crofs  the  copper,  with  a 
crank  at  one  end,  and  four  flats,  or  pofts,  that 
aire  incerted  in  the  fliaft  before  mentioned. 
The  reel,  thus  formed,  ihould  be  about  a 
yard  in  circumference.  On  this,  the  cloth, 
in  the  copper  is  to  be  turned,  while  colour- 
ing, to  prefer ve  it  from  fpotting. 

Many  dyers  place  one  end  of  a  board  on 
the  edge  of  the  copper  to  receive  the  cloth 
in  order  for  cooling ;  but  It  is  much  better  to 
have  a  cooling  board,  about  eight  feet  long 


ASSISTANT.  ij 

and  one  foot  wide  placed  at  a  fttiall  diftance 
from  the  copper  about  waift  high.  Another 
about  the  fize  of  a  prefs-board  you  may 
reft  on  the  top  of  the  copper  to  receive  the 
cloth  from  the  reel;  then  take  the  board  with 
the  cloth  and  place  it  under  the  cooling- 
board,  where  you  will  be  careful  to  have 
b'ocks  to  reft  your  cloth  on,  in  order  to  cool 
it,  by  folding  it  upon  your  cooling  board. 
Thofe,  who  intend  to  dye  indigo  blue, 
muft  have  an  iron  kettle,  that  will  hold  a 
pailful,  in  order  to  grind  indigo  ;  and  an 
iron  ball,  of  twelve  pounds  weight ;  one  of 
eighteen  pounds  is  better. 

Dyers  fhould  be  furniftied  with  fpare  tubs 
and  pails;  alfo  with  ftec^lyards,  or  fcales  that 
are  true  ;  in  order  to  weigh  dye-ftuffs,  which 
ought  never  to  be  ufed  without  ftri6l  atten- 
tion to  their  weight.  There  are  but  few  ex- 
ceptions to  this  rule. 


B 


>4  THE  CQUNTRY  DYZKi 

m 
CHAP.     II. 
Remarks  en  Dyejluffs. 

V_Jf  Indigo  there  arc  various 
quallicies.  Many  d\ers  ofLcn  fail  in  their 
judgment  of  the  Indigo,  they  purchafe. 
The  bed  is  im;^orted  from  the  S;>anifh  do- 
ininior-s.  It  is  generally  fine  and  fofcj  it 
will  f  vim  on  the  furface  of  water ;  its  col- 
our IS  a  beautiful  purple  j  it  is  called  fioar, . 
or  floa'.on.  But  this  Indiiio  comes  to  us 
char:  e J  at  lo  h'n^  a  price,  that  litt'e  ufe  is 
made  of  it,  except  in  Saxon  greens,  Fiench 
Indigo  is  in  junks,  about  an  inch  fquire.  Ic 
is  not  {j  foft  ar-vi  fine  as  the  Spanifh  j  when 
broken,  if  it  difcovers  a  fine  purple,  the  qual- 
ity is  good  ;  it  may  be  ufed  in  Saxon  green. 
Carolina  Indigo  wil':  anfwer  for  almoft  all 
colours  obtained  from  indigo.  I  have  ob- 
tained as  good  Saxon  green,  frofM  this,  as' 
UOiTi  any  other  kind.  If  this  Ind-go  will 
VrOrs  in  the"6"il  of  vicricl  and  produce  good 


ASSISTANT.  15 

Saxon  greens;  it  will  work  any  way,  m  dy- 
ing cloths,  and  may  jse  pronounced  compar- 
advely  good.  TbL^s^^  Vind  of  Ir.digo  is 
brought  from  Carolina  in  junks  about  two 
inches  fquare.  You  may  find  its  quality, 
by  bi-caking  aju-^k,  or  by  cutting  or/crap- 
ing tlie  edge  of  it  with  a  knife.  It  fhould 
break  eafily,  jnd  in  all  ihofe  experiments 
it  (hould  give  the  colour  of  a  bright,  (hir- 
ing copperas  purple,  and  vhen  broken,  ap- 
pears fome  th'ng  mouldy,  as  if  the  air  hid 
paffed  through  it.  That  which  puts  en 
a  dirty,  fad,  or  dull  colcur,  is  fit  for  ro  u^e 
whatever.  Thaf,  which  breaks  hard  and 
flinty,  full  of  fmall,  round,  white  fpecks,  will 
arfwer  no  purpofe  in  dying,  not  even  in- 
families  urine  dye. 

Of  CochinsaU 

Cochineal  is  an  infed  cuki/ated  in  Sautd 
Annerica.  It  is  (hipped  to  Spain  ;  from 
Spain  to  England  ;  whence  we  obtain  it  at 
ahigh^rice,  on  the  account  of  accuirulatcd 
and  heavy  duties.  It  is  a  ftrong  and  good 
dyef\uff,  or  drug,  and  will  return  handfoma 


iS  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'i 

profits  to  the  dyer  v,hen  ufed  in  fcarlet?, 
pinks  and  crimfons.  That  which  is  good 
will  appear  plump  and  look  as  though  alight 
fprinkling  of  flour  had  been  cafl  on  it.  If 
you  preferve  it  dry,  it  may  be  kept  any 
length  t>f  tim.e  without  damage.  There  is 
a  kind  cf  Cochineal,  which  is  wild  and  un- 
cultiva'.ed.  It  is  very  fmall  and  (hrivelled. 
However  you  may  obtain  a  good  colour  from 
it  s  but  it  will  require  three  tines  the  weight 
5  ih'?,  to  anfwer  the  purpofe. 
Some  Cochineal  is^amaged  by  fait  wa- 
ter. This  appears  of  a  dirty  crimfon  cafl:  and 
is  of  no  ufe  whatever. 

0/  Camii-cod, 

Cam^vood  i?,  wiih  propriety,  ranked  a- 
rnong  the  beft  of  dyeflufiFs.  Its  colour  is 
permanen:  ;  it  will  refift  the  influenie  of 
the  falc^  of  the  air  and  almoft  all  acids.  But 
a  few  years  fince,  it  was  6:11  brought  to  th^s 
country.  It  comes  in  the  wood  from  fix 
inches  to  a  foot  through  ;  it  fpUts  fteely  ; 
when  good  is  heavy,  and  on  opening  it,  the 
firft  appearance  is  a  >JiiFight,  redifh  orange  ; 


ASSISTANT.  fj 

but,  in  a  few  minutes  being  expofed  to  the 
air,  it  turns  to  a  redikh  brown  colour ;  its 
fmell  is  pungent.  Of  late  is  has  been  im- 
ported in  cafiks,  ground  fine  like  flour.  This 
is  much  more  convenient  fcr  the  dyer;  for 
ihat  which  comes  in  the  flick,  mufl  be 
chipped  very  fine,  and  being  very  clofe 
wood,  it  requires  much  boiling. 

That  which  is  ground,  if  good,  will  ap- 
pear of  a  yellowifh  red  j  if  you  wave  it,  a  hoc 
dufl  will  rife  «hich  irritates  the  nofe  and  the 
glands  of  your  thrcar. 

That  which  is  mild  and  appears  of  a  dark* 
ifh  red  has  been  leached  and  wiil  produce  no 
good  colour. 

Of  Logwoods 

Logwood  is  much  ufed,  by  dyers,  bodi 

in  Europe  and  America.     Its  low  price  and 

the  great  variet)  of  fhades  it  produ-rcs,  is  one 

leafon  why  fomuch  Logwood  is  ufed.     But 

however  various  and  beautiful  the  fhades,  it 

firfl  gives,  the  greater  part  of  ihenn  fcon  ^ade 

and  perilh. 

B2 


•il  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

The  principal  ufc  of  Logwood  is  in  jet 
blacks,  raven  blacks  or  crow  colour  j  alfo  navy 
blues  cannot  beconvenietnly  made  without  it. 

Logwood  is  imported  in  fticks  of  various 
dimenfions;  if  good  will  emit  an  agreeable 
flavour  and  be  fwcet  to  the  tafte. 

Of  Bar-wood. 

Barwood  is  a  dyeflufiF  not  much  ufed  In 
Annerica.  Some,  however  have  nniftaken  it 
for  Camwood,  not  having  fufficient  infor- 
mation to  diftinguifh  the  one  fronn  the  other ; 
being  ignorant  of  i:s  ufc,  they  have  been  dif- 
appointed  in  their  colour. 

B'lrwood  will  produce  chocolates  and 
darkifh  browns,  finniiar  to  thofe  impreffed 
\>y  Hemlock  bark.  Barwood  commonly 
comes  in  clefts.  It  is  of  a  redilh  brown  j 
fpiits  freely  one  way  of  the  grain  ;  the  other 
hard  and  rough. 

Of  Greenwood. 

Greenwood  comes  in  calks  ground.  It  is 
but  lately  Greenwood  was  firfl'  imported 
to  this  country.     It  is  of  a  greenifh  yellow  i 


AbSISTANr.  19 

it  anfwcrs  well,  in  all  olives  and  Tandy  drabs. 
However  Sumach  will  produce  the  fame,  and 
where  one  cannot  be  obtained,  the  other  will 
anfwer. 

Of  Brazil  or  Redwood 

Redwood  aflFords,  a  fine  colour,  whether 
ufed  alone,  united  with  Logwood,  or  with 
various  other  ingredients.  It  will  produce 
a  variety  of  colours,  by  mixing  it  with  Log- 
wood; luch  as  the  violet,  leloch  and  masy 
others  of  that  call.  Without  Logwood  it 
gives  you  the  pink,  claret  &c.  However,  a 
fmall  quantity  ofNutgals  would  be  of  ferv ice 
in  any  of  the  dyes  made  of  Redwood;  pro- 
vided you  widi  to  make  them  darker.  But 
the  colour,  which  Redwood  produces  is  falfc 
and  generally  fades  out.  However,  if  ycu 
will  take  the  trouble  of  nine  days  operation, 
you  may  obtain  a  very  permanent  colour. 

Redwood  comes  in  fmall  flicks;  if  good 
looks  bright  bearing  a  little  on  a  yellowifh 
red;  it  fmells  agreeably  and  chips  freely. 
That  which  has  been  injured  by  fea-water, 


5.«  'HIE  COUNTRY  DYERV 

or  the  weather,  affords  a  dull  red   chip,  antt 
is  cohefive  and  clingy* 

Of  Fvfiick. 

Fuftick  is  much  vfed  in  this  country. 
The  colour  it  naturally  produces  is  an  orange 
^ellov/.  It  is  often  employed  in  greens,  ol- 
ives and  drabs  J  if  good,  it  arfAers  a  val- 
uable prrpofe.  It  fhould  appear  when  fplit 
of  a  bright  yellow,  tinged  with  the  orange 
colour.  The  wood  is  clofe  ar.d  hard  j  gener- 
ally hard  to  fplit  and  fu'l  of  fplinters.  The 
root  and  that  part  of  the  wood  which  is 
knoty  is  the  bed.  It  comes  to  us  in  large 
logs  from  fix  inches  to  one  foot  and  a  half 
through  ;  if  it  be  rotter,  or  otherwife  inju- 
ried  it  will  not  anfv.er  well  for  f.:xon  greens ; 
however,  it  may  be  ennploytd  in  dark  drab?» 

Of  Turmerecb, 

TurmerecK  Is  a  root,  vhich  dyes  the  fineft 
yellow.  Without  it,  reith^er  a  good  yellow^ 
gicen  nor  flraw  colour  can  be  imprefl  upon 
fi'k?.  Ic  is  ufed  with  AUum  and  a  little 
Tartar.    The  different  Ihadcs  it  produces  oa 


ASSISTANT.  SI 

filk,  when  mixed  with  other  dyc-flufiFs,  are 
too  numerous  to  be  defcribed  in  this  fmall 
volume.  Turmerech  is  i  fmall  roor,  about 
two  inches  long,  as  big  as  the  fmall  fiogcr. 
If  it  be  good,  when  broken,  it  will  prcfent 
J  you  a  dark  yellow  ;  a  ftrong  flavour  and  it 
is  very  bitter  to  the  taftc. 

Qf  Sumach, 

Sumach  is  a  crooked  Ibrub,  with  fpread- 
ing  branches ;  it  rifes  about  ten  feet  high 
and  grows  fpontaneoufly  in  many  parts  of 
this  country.  It  is  an  excellent  dye-wood, 
for  drabs  and  fand  colours  j  its  impreflions 
are  permanent.  In  would  ^^e  well  if  it  were 
more  employed  by  our  country  dyers,  than 
it  is  at  prefent.  I:s  berries,  when  ripe  are  of 
a  dark  red;  they  are  acid  to  the  tafle,  and 
may  be  employed  in  almoil  any  dark  colour. 

Sumach  Ihould  be  collefted  when  it  is 
full  of  fap.  Be  careful  that  the  fap  be  tak- 
en off  with  a  drawing-knife  before  you  uffe 
i:;  for  there  is  a  g'uttgnous  balfam  in  the 
fap,  which  will  adhere  to  cloth,  and  of  con- 
fcquence  it  will  be  fpotteJ. 


aa  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

The  heart  and  piihs  are  the  only  parts  to 
be  ufed,  as  it  refpeds  the  wood.  It  pre- 
fents  you  with  the  colour  of  a  faint  orangt. 
It  will  be  good  for  years  after  it  is  cur,  if  the 
fap  be  taken  off  and  the  (licks  are  k-'pt  dry. 

Of  Nfgrogcr. 

Negrogcr  is  brought  to  us  in  flicks  about 
fix  inches  through.  The  ftitks  have  a  num- 
ber of  concaves  in  them,  which  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  art.  This  wood  fp] its  freely; 
difcovers  a  rediih  orange  colour,  fomethin.g 
lik^  Cannv^ood  ;  the  fmeil  is  not  fharp  and 
poignant:  Its  colour  is  a  bright  cinnamon. 
But  it  loon  fades,  and  it  will  be  of  little  uf* 
to  djers,  un^fs  fome  n^ethcd  can  Le  found, 
to  fix  and  retain  the  colour. 

Of  Madder, 

Midder  is  a  root  of  excellent  quality.  If 
it  bs  good  and  fuitably  cnriployed,  it  will 
give  a  permarent  colour. 

Of  Madder  there  are  twokirds  the  one 
called  grape,,  the  other  brown.  The  grape 
Madder,  is  the  more  beautiful  and  better  tc^ 


ASSISTANT.  sg 

-olour  red ;  the  brown  will  anfwer  in  deep 
blues.  Tnis  comes  cheaper  than  the  grape. 
The  grape  Midder  poffefTcs  a  yellowifli  red 
cafl,  to  the  frnell  pungent ;  to  the  tafte  fweet. 
7hi  brown  is  much  darker  and  not  fo  high 
flavoured. 

Midder  fhould  be  kept  clofe  ;  if  it  be  ex- 
pofed  tD  the  air,  it  will  not  produce  fo  bright, 
nor  fo  much  colour. 

0/  Burks  J  in  general. 

Butternut  is  an  ex:ellenc  bark  for  dyers ; 
its  colour  is  durable  3  it  is  ufcful  in  nnany 
of  the  browns  and  a-fo  in  black. 

The  baik  fliouM  be  ufed  while  it  is  green, 
i^dry  it  will  not  anfwera  good  purpofe.  Ic 
will  be  the  be:ter  way  for  dyers  to  flock 
themfeli-es,  in  the  fall  with  fo  much  of  the 
wood,  w:ch  ihe  bark  on,  as  ihcy  expecl  to 
reed  for  the  feafun.  It  fnou'd  be  kept  un- 
der cover,  and  the  bark  Hiaved  off  .is  they 
ufe  it. 

Of  Hemlock  bark. 

Hemlock  is  a  very  good  bark  for.  col  our. 
ing.     The    rols   fnould  be  taken  ofF  and 


«4  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'. 

whether  green  or  dry  ik  is  equally  good,  in 
browns,  its  colour  is  of  a  redilh  call. 

OfTelloio  Oak  hark. 

This  bark  produces  a  ftrong  colour  and 
is  good  in  olive  browns  and  blacks.  Wheth- 
er it  be  green  or  dry,  it  is  equally  good.  It 
will  not  anfN^er  in  Saxcn  greens.  Its  colour 
is  of  a  much  duller  call  than  Fuftick  or 
Turmera:h. 

Walnut  bark  or  Hichory  is  foirething  like 
yellow  oak;  its  colour  is  rather  brighter; 
both  are  durable,  and  eiiher  of  them  will  an- 
fwer  the  fame  purpofe. 

Of  White  Oak  hark. 

This  bark  is  good  in  fand  colours  and 
drabs.  The  colour  is  permanent.  A  fmall 
quantity  of  this  bark  is  fulEcient  for  your 
purpcfe.  Take  cflFall  the  top  and  rough 
parts  of  the  bark  j  otherwife  it  will  adhere 
to  and  injure  your  cloth. 

Of  Alder  hark. 

This  bark  is  good  and  its  impreHJions  dur- 
&b>,  i:  Is  ufefal  in  almoft  allca:k  colours  ; 


ASSISTANT.  jj 

it  afllfts  in  filling  up,    and  darkening  the 
lh*des  and  leaves  the  colourbright  and  clear. 

White  maple  bark  produces  a  Ante  colour, 
which  is  beautiful  ;  but  it  foon  fade?  out. 
It  niuft  be  ranked  among  the  falfe dyes 

White  birch  bark  produces  much  the  fame 
eolour,  only  it  is  lighter,  and  like  the  maple 
will  foon  fade. 

Yellow  birch,  white  afh  ^d  faffafras  barks 
are  good,  in  light  browns/or  afh  co'ours ;  if 
they  bt  properly  ufed,  the  colours  will  be 
clear  and  beautiful,  and  they  wii  leave  the 
cloth  foft  and  pliable. 

Thefc  barks  aie  profitable  tofcountry  dy- 
ers when  they  have  not  a  fupply  of  isutg^ala. 


CHAP.     lit. 

Recipe  for  the  blue  dye,  or  Indigo  VaL 

z\S  before  obferved,  the  fiaeof 
your  vat  will  be  in  proportion  to  ilie  bufi- 
ncfs,  b  which  you  would  employ  it.    lix 


»6  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

order  to  fet,  or  raife  a  new  dye,  put  one  pound 
and  an  half  of  Indigo  into  an  iron  kettle, 
which  will  contain  two  or  three  gallons  i 
then  fill  your  kettle  with  river,  or  pond  wa- 
ter, walh  the  Indigo  and  pour  off  the  water; 
then  take  a  peftle  and  beat  the  Indigo  fo 
fmall  that  a  cannon  ball  will  run  upon  it. 
Add  a  point  of  urine  to  the  Indigo  thus  pre* 
pared  for  grinding;  then  place  the  kettle  on 
your  knees  and  let  the  ball  run  on  the  Indi- 
go till  it  be  ground  to  a  pafte  ;  obferve  occa-, 
fiondly  to  fcrape  down  with  a  knife,  the  In- 
digo, which  adheres  to  the  fidesof  the  kettle, 
left  you  fhould  wafle  it. 

if  your  Indigo  be  too  dry  add  a  little 
more  urine.  It  fhould  be  fufficiently  moifl 
that  the  ball  may  roll  freely  ;  but  not  fo 
thin  as  to  flop  over.  This  procefs  of  grind- 
ing fhould  be  continued  about  half  a  day. 
The  Indigo  being  thus  prepared  nnay  befit 
afide  for  the  prefent.  Your  vat  is,  in  the 
c€xt  place,  to  be  put  in  order.  Firft,  it 
fhould  be  about  half  full  of  boiling  water  ; 
then  put  in  a  pound  and  an  half  of  good  pot- 
tlh  defolved  in  hot  waterj  to  this  add  twelve 


ASSISTANT.  zg 

quarts  of  wKcat  bran  j  after  fifting  out  all 
the  Sower  or  kernel,  fprinkle  it  into  the  vat 
with  the  hand  and  ftir  the  dye  with  the  rake. 
This  done,  add  twelve  ounces  of  good  grape 
Madder,  then  with  the  rake,  mix  it  will 
with  your  dye.  In  the  next  place,  take  th« 
Indigo  jou  hare  ground,  nearly  fill  the  ket- 
tle with  warm  water ;  keep  the  ball  rolling^ 
while  the  kettle  is  filling,  and  let  the  ball 
run  until  the  Indigo  is  well  united  with  th« 
water  J  then  let  it  ftand  and  fettle  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  then  pour  the  water  that  i» 
on  the  Indigo,  into  the  vat.  Be  careful  that 
none  of  the  fedaoient  at  the  bottom  of  tht 
kettle  is  turned  off  wich  the  water  j  thij 
muft  be  ground  again  and  more  warm  wa- 
ter added  and  poured  ofF,  in  the  manner 
juft  defcribed,  until  the  Indigo  is  nearly  all 
defolved. 

Obferve,   through   all  this  procefs,  your 
.▼at   muft  be  clofely  covered,  excepting  thf 
time  that  is  necelTary  to  introduce  the  engrc- 
dients. 

When  you  have  poured  in  all  your  Indigo, 
whi^h  is  the  lall  article,  you  will  do  well 


i5  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

CO  flir  up    the  dye,  with  the  rake  j  then  cov- 
'cr  your  vat,  if  poffiblc  to  exclude  the  circu- 
lation of  the  air.     Let  your  vat,  thus  cor  fin- 
ed, remain  for  eight  or  nine  hours  be  fore  it 
be  opened. 

Half  a  pail-fu'l    of  grounds  from  on  old 

vat,  that  is  in  good  order,  might  be  ufefula* 

the  firft  article  introduced  into  a  new  one. 

However, in  fitting  a  nev  vat,  the  e/eaing  is 

the   heft  time,  having   all  the  materials,  vc 

have  mcnticriCd;  introduced,  by  the  hour  of 

ten  at  night.    Then  your  dye  may  reft  till 

the  morning  ;  when   you    fhould  open  the 

va:  and   piunge  your  rake  from  the  top  to 

the  bottom  of  the  dye.   This  flhould  be  done 

%vich   adlivity   end  exertion.     Bubbles   will 

appear   and  bf  repeating  the  plunges  fix  or 

feven    times,  if  a  thick   blue  froth  rifes  on 

the   furfare  of  the  dye  which    is  called   the 

head,  continuing  to  float,  and  further,  if  it 

put  on  the  appearance  of  a  darkilTi  green  ; 

the  dye  may  be  pronounced  in  a  good  (late 

and  is  fi:  for  colouring.    Perhaps,  the  proccfs 

of  plunging  muH  be  repea'.ed  two  or  three 

times i  but  remember  every  time,  after  you 


ASSISTANT.  t§ 

h*ve  plunged  your  rake  in  the  dve,  to  cover 
your  vat  clofely,  and  to  let  it  reft  for  an  hour, 
between  thefe  trials.     If  your  dye  becomes 
cool,  it  will  not  rife  to  a  head,  though  it  be 
good. 

■  If  the  dye  becomes  cool  it  muft  be  heat 
•gain.  This  will  retard  bufinefs  and  caufe 
trouble.  If  the  dye  when  firft  opened,  in 
the  morning,  appear  of  a  pale  blue  cad,  in- 
ftead  of  a  dark  green,  an  handful  or  two  of 
Madder  muft  be  fprinkled  into  the  vat. 

The  dye^in  the  morning  'after  it  is  fer, 
fhould  be  fo  warm  that  you  cannot  bear  your 
hand  in  it  longer  than  one  minute.  If  the 
d)e  appear  of  a  pale  indifferent  colour,  and 
a  whitifh  fcum  rifes  on  the  furface,  it  does 
not  work  and  will  n^colour.  In  this  cafe, 
the  dye  muft  be  hea^'  and  a  fmall  portion 
of  all  its  ingredients  mvft  be  added  j  alfo  a 
handful  of  ftone  lime  Ihould  be  put  to  warm 
water,  and  after  fettling  pour  off  theiime  wa- 
ter, into  the  vat. 

Many,  through  want  of  better  inftfuftion, 
will  fn.quently  look  into  the  vat,  to  difcovcr 
C  a 


30  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

the  ftatc  of  the  dye.  By  thus  expofjng  it  to 
the  air  it  cools,  and  they  will  never  bring  it 
to  a  head  till  they  are  taught  better. 

Of  all  dyes,  the  blue  is  the  moft  difficult 
and  mun.  be  attended  with  the  greateQ  care. 
After  the  vat  is  fet  and  conaes  to  a  head,  it. 
may  ftand  fccurc  till  employed  for  dying 
cloth.  When  the  cloth  is  ready  for  colour- 
ing, the  d}  e  mufl  be  heat. 

If  you  have  fixty  yards  of  flannel,  that  is, 
fo  many  yards  of  cloth  after  it  has  been 
fcoured,  or  one  quarter  fulled;  two  pounds 
of  Indigo  ground  with  a  ball  according  to 
our  former  direftion  mud  be  put  into  the 
vat,  together  with  the  proportionable  addi- 
tions, of  Potafb,  Madder  and  wheat  bran. 

The  d/e  fhould  be  raifcd  within  three 
inches  of  the  top  of  the  vat. 

Let  the  vat  be  hot  at  night  when  you  It^vt 
it  :  To  preftrve  the  heat,  en6lofc  the  vat 
with  a  num.ber  ©f  yards  of  cieifh,  that  it  may 
be  fuffi:lently  warm  in  the  morning.  At 
that  time,^  when  you  open  it  plun^iC  your 
rake  in  the  dye,  then  cover  it  c'ofely ;  reft 
one  hour  then  plunge  again,  repeat  thefe  op- 


•ASSISTANT.  31 

eratlons  two  or  three  tiaies.  If  the  dye  be 
in  a  good  ftate  and  vork  well,  there  will  be 
as  nnany  as  ten  or  twelve  quarts  of  fro:h  or 
head,  floating  on  the  fu  face  of  the  dye,whofe 
colour  will  appear  of  a  beautiful  dark  blue; 
at  the  fame  time,  the  body  of  the  dye  will 
give  you  a  dark  green.  This  is  th^-f  roper 
ftateof  the  dye,  for  colouring  j  or  when  the 
dye  cught  to  be  employed. 

The  cloth  fhould  be  cleanfcd  from  all 
filih  ;  efpecially  greafe;  forgreafe  will  over- 
fet  the  dye  even  in  its  bcfl  Hate.  Aifo  eve- 
ry thing  ihtO'jld  be  prepared  ,when  th*  li- 
quor is  in  rcadinefs.  So  foon  as  the  vat  is 
opened,  the  head  or  froth  fhould  be  taken 
off"  and  put  into,  a  ycir^l  that  wiii  contain  it, 
next  the  net  fhould  be  let  down,  and  the 
ftick,  or  crofs  placed  about  one-  inch  b^low 
the  furface  of  tSc  dye,  for  the  purpofe  of  hail- 
ing the  cloth  over  it. 

In  the  next  place,  the  cla  h  is  to  be  taken 
from  hot  water,  being,  well  dralpied,  v,  hich 
procefs  mud  be  obferved  every  time  of  dip- 
ping; hall  the  cloth  into  the  vat,  beginning 
at  ong  end,  keep  it  open,  tiJ  you  have  drawn 


j2  THE  COUNTRY  DYER.'* 

ifee  whole  piece  into  the  dye.  Perfc/erc  ia 
hailing  backwards  and  forv/ards  from  one 
end  to  the  other  for  twenty  minutes  j  at  the 
fame  time  it  fhould  be  entirely  in  the  dye. 
After  this  procefs  you  fhould  begin  at  one 
end  of  the  cloth,  v,ring  it  up  and  take  it  on 
the  folding  board,  and  fold  it  over  until  it 
becoxes  blue  and  even  j  for  if  this  procefs  be 
neglected  your  goods  will  be  fpotted. 

The  cloth  when  firft  taken  cut  of  the  yat 
will  exhibit  a  green  fhidej  but  being  ex- 
pofed  to  the  air,  will  become  blue. 

Dip  the  cloth  tv,icc;  then  take  out  the 
crofs  and  net ;  put  back  the  froth,  or  head, 
which  was  taken  off.  Stir  your  dye  and 
plunge  your  rake  in  it :  Then  clofe  tht 
vat  for  an  hour.  After  that,  proceed  £s  be- 
fore, till  the  colour  you  wilh  is  obtained. 

The  cloth  mud  now  pafs  a  lecond  milling. 
In  the  mean  time,  it  will  be  well  to  prepare 
your  vat  to  receive  the  cloth  for  the  laft  time. 
Put  four  or  five  po>>nds  of  woad,  v.  ell  pow- 
dered, into  the  vat.  >  Thi^  t^ill  fave  Indigo 
and  render  the  colour  briohter.  The  woad 
fliould  be  put  into  th«  vat  once,  in  two  or 


ASSISTANT.  8« 

three  times  of  colouring,  that  is  after  the  dye 
has  done  work,  or  when  the  dyer  has  done 
ufing  it  for  that  time. 

After  this  the  dye  ftould  be  kept  clofc 
till  it  is  re-heat  fur  another  colouring.  The 
d)er  mufl  be  careful  in  hot  weather  lO  heat 
the  vat.  once  in  a  'nonth,  or  fix  weeks  to  pre- 
ferve  it.  He  mufl  alio  take  ofFthe  maggoty 
which  V  ill  appear  on  the  vat  above  the  fur- 
face  of  the  dye. 

When  the  liquor  beconaes  thick  and  glut- 
tenous,  by  ufe,  the  dye  muft  be  boiled  the 
fcum  taken  off  and  the  dye  returned  to  the 
vat.  Ac  the  ficne  time  add  a  little  Lime- 
water,  tocbrify  the  dye  and  fettle  the  grounds^ 
for  if  the  fcdanneut  rife  the  colour  will  not 
be  good. 

The  dyer  fliould  never  dip  his  goods  till 
the  grounc's  are  well  fettled. 

N.  B.  After  colouring  deep  blues,  the 
dyer  mav  ufe  his  vat  to  colour  various 
fhades  of  the  fky  blu?,  which  will  anfwer  a 
better  purpfife  now  when  his  dye  is  week. 


34  THE  COUNTRY  DYZ^'t 

Of  the  Indigo  vat  with  urine. 

Take  one  pound  of  Indigo,  beat  it  fmall, 
then  add  to  it  one  quart  of  fharp  vinegar  \ 
being  put  in:©  a  (rnill  kettle,  let  them  fim- 
mer  over  a  flow  fire,  for  twenty- four  hours. 
As  the  vinegar  evaporates  add  more.  If  tht 
Indigo  be  not  all  defolved  by  this  procefs,  it 
rnuft  br.  taked  off  and  ground  in  a  mortar, 
or  v.'ith  a  csr.nnn  ball,  in  the  fame  liquor  i 
occafionaiiy  adding,  a  little  urine  ;  put  in 
two  ounces  of  Madder,  mix  it  well  with  a 
flick.  , 

In  the  next  place  put  this  compofition,  in- 
to a  c^ik  or  vat  of  urine,  which  will  contain 
fifiecn  gallons,  mix  all  well  together.  Stir 
yo'jr  tub  or  vat  v;ich  a  (lick,  nnorning  and 
cren-'r.g.  for  eighti>!f  ;en  days,  till  the  fur- 
face  of  the  liquor,  being  agitated  appear 
green  producing  a  froth  like  the  common 
blue  var.  Itv  this  flare  your  dye  is  fit  (oi 
colouring.  Thefe  vats  are  very  convenient 
for  the  dying  of  wool  and.woo^e]S|arn.  Fam- 
ilies may  employ  thfm  at  their  pftafure,  and 
Riake  them  large  or  fmall,  at  the  fame  time 


AiSSlStANT.  35 

attending  to  the  fuitable  proportioras  of  Indi* 
go  and  Madder,  as  above  prefcribed. 

When  the  dye  becomes  thick  and  glut-» 
tcnous,  the  whole  fliould  be  boiled  and  the 
fcunn  taken  off. 

Obferving    thefe  dlreflions,  your  dye  will 

laft  many  years. 
N.  B.  The  vat  mud  not  be  crowded  ;   two 

or  three  pounds  of  cloth  or  yarn  is  fufficicnt 
for  one  colouring  in  a  vat  which  will  con- 
fain  a  barrel. 


CHAP     IV. 

For  Navy  Blue, 

^^"^ 
i   HE  Navy   blue  'u   s.   cheap 
«nd  good  colour  j  its  tint  is  beautiful  and  it 
leaves  cloth  foft  and  pliable.     The  Indiga-* 
blue  is  expenfive,  and  its  cp|pur  is  obtained 
with  nnuch  care  and  trouble. 

The  former  being    nearly   ss  handfun^.e^. 
will  of  confequence  be  much  more  ufsd.. 


36  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

To  produce  this  colour,  the  copper  ©r 
chaldron  muft  be  cleanfed  and  then  filled 
v»ith  puie  water.  For  twenty  yards  cf  fulled, 
or  thick  c'oth  put  into  the  copper  one  pound 
and  an  half  of  good  green  Copperas  ;  lei  th« 
water  boil  and  take  off  the  fcum  that  rifcs. 
This  being  done,  your  cloth  wet  in  warm  wa- 
ter is  to  be  dipped  in  the  dye  for  twenty  mi!> 
ures:  then  cool  it  over  the  folding  board; 
afier  this>  dip  ycur  cloth  again,  for  two  hours, 
then  cool  again  and  rinfe  your  cloth  well  in 
a  running  lltcann. 

Naw  empty  the  copper  and  fill  it  again 
with  clean  water.  "  At  this  time  you  nruft 
have  about  fix  pounds  of  good  Logwood,  well 
boiled,  by  ittelf.  Bring  the  waer  in  your 
copper  to  boil;  then  add  about  one  paii-full 
of  the  LogwotaJ  dye  to  the  copper,  ftir  it 
well  togeihcr,  and  then  dip  theclo-h  about 
half  an  hour ;  ihen  cool,  following  this  proc- 
efs  till  the  co'our  dengr.cd  is  cbtained, 
This  is  a  ve.y  dark  blue.  Kinfc  your  cloih 
well,  in  order  for  drefling. 

This  colour  will  bear  well  the  heat  of  the 


ASSISTANT. 


prefs.  Woolen  yarn,  for  coverlets,  flocking', 
&c,  may,in  this  wiy  be  coloured  toadvantage. 
Thin   cloths  are  beautifully   coloured  in 
this  way. 


C  H  A  P.     V. 

For  Raven  blacky  or  Crow  colour ^ 

J.  HE  copper  is  to  be  fiilcdj 
with  clean  water  and  brought  to  boil.  For 
twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloch,  put  in  one 
pound  and  an  half  of  good  Roman  virrioh 
After  it  be  well  defolved,  dip  the  cloth  for 
half,  an  hour  ;  then  cool  it — after  '.his  dip 
for  two  hours ;  cool  it  again  and  rinfe  ir.  In 
the  next  place  the  copper  muft  be  emptied 
and  filled  again  with  clean  water.  Put  in 
half  a  buiht'l  of  Sumach  berries,  if  they  can 
be  obtained  i  a  paiiful  of  Alder  bark  and 
one  pound  of  Madder  B  )il  th^^m  -.veil  in 
the  copper.  Then  dip  your  cloth  half  an  hour 
—then  cool  it.  After  tfiis  add  from  tinne  to 
D 


38  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

time  th«  liquor  of  Logwood,  as  in  the  navy 
blue  till  the  colour  is  obraired. "  Now  rinfe 
your  cloth  for  drefTing.  Be  Ciiefol  and  not 
heat  your  prefs  too  hot  j  if  you  doit  will 
change  the  colour  and  you  will  find  it  diffi- 
cuk,  ever,  to  reftorc  it. 

N.  B.  Cloth  of  this  and  almoft  all  colours' 
n)uft  be  kept  open,  while  running  on  the  reel. 

If  this  be  neglected,  the  cloth  will  be  ipot» 
ted  and  unfit  for  ufe. 

Many  dyer|  let  iheir  cloth  lie,  in  the  cop- 
per, and  then^  cannot  account  "svhy  the  co!- 
our  is  uneven;  but  if -they  would  attend  to 
their  dye  ,thcy  would  avoid  reproach,  and 
their  cuftorticis  would  find  no  reafon  of  cox* 
plaint.  <i, 

Far  Black, 

Many  have  confidcfcd  this,  as  a  difE:^ulc 
colour  to  produce.  Various  mcrhods  are 
employed  tocbtaipJt.'Thb  following  is  the 
bed  we  hive  found.  To  colour  tv/enty  yards 
of  thick  cloth  in  the  firft  place  the  copper 
muft  be  put  in  order,  for  laying  the  ground 
of  the  dye.     After  the  water  is  P^in,  add 


ASSISTANT.  0f^ 

about  onebulhel  of  yellow  oak  bark  j  if  that 
cannot  be  obtained,  employ  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  walnut  hark.  Boil  it  for  four  or  five 
hours.  Then  take  out  the  Sark  and  add  to 
the  dye  two  pounds  of  good  Copperas,  Let 
it  delolve,  then  dip  the  cloth  for  half  an 
hour.  Cool  and  rt-peat  dipping  three,  or 
four  times.  The  cloh  vtili  then  appear  of 
a  heavy,  or  dead  olive  colour.  Rinfe  the 
cloth  well  in"  running  water.  Now  empty 
the  copper  and  fi.ll  it  again,  with  clean  water  j 
bring  it  to  boi',  then  adi  the  liquor  of  Log- 
wood, as  in  the  Navy  b;ue,  tiil  the  colour  is 
obtained.     Now  rinfe  the  cloth  for  drcfli  »g. 

Gcod,  bright>  blacks  are  cafily  obtained 
by  this  procefs. 

Old  goods  wit!  eafily  receive  this  colour 
though  the  dye  be  not  fo  ilrong  as  what  we 
hare  Drefcribcd  for  new  cloth. 

Silk  alfo  will  receive  it  eafilyvbutthe  dyt 
mud  be  very  ftrong. 

Any  pcrfon  may  colour  black\by_  fnnaU 
quantities  in  this  way  withojit-arny  gttkt  ex- 
aflnefs,  as  to  the  ingredients  cnriploved,  and 
wuh  little  frouble. 


40  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

N.  B.  Navy  blue,  jet  black  and  Raven 
black,  or  Crow  colours,  and  deep  Indigo 
blues,  fhould  be  well  fcoured  in  the  mill  in  a 
weak  fuds  i  otherwife  they  will  crock  and 
b^  troublefome. 


C  H  A  P,     VI. 

Recipe /or  light  and  dark   Cinnamon,  Londm 
hrou'ns,  and  Britijh  muds, 

xjLLL  thele  are  obtained  from 
the  fanne  pool,  or  dye. 

For  tvtenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth  j  when 
the  copper  is  filled,  with  pure  wa^er,  and 
brought  to  boil,  the  d>er  muft  put  in  three 
pounds  of^ood  Camwood ;  Jet  it  boil  in  the 
copper  fifteen  minutes;  then  dip  your  cloth, 
for  two  hours.  Keep  it  open  and  running  over 
the  reel ;  then  take  up  the  clpth  for  cooling. 
Add,  as  before,  three  pounds  of  Camwood,, 
and  dip  your  cloth  again  according^o   the 


ASSISTANT.  41 

fame  prefcription.  Then  the  li  :ht  Cinna- 
rr.on  is  obtained  and  the  cloch  may  be  rinicd 
for  dr effing. 

For  the  next  procer^,  ad.:!  to  ynur  d\c  a 
fmall  handful  of  Ro  nan  vitr.ol— :wo  tab-'e 
fpooi  fuh  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  one  of  good 
copperas.  Let  them  fimmcr  tvell  in  the  top- 
per. T..ke  ofFthe  fcum,  or  filth  that  riles 
onthed)e;  ftir  it  veil  ;  then  dip  )  our  cloth 
that  is  coloured  light  Cinnannon. 

FoUovv  this  for  half  an  hour;  fUfrffg  the 
reel  brilkly,  that  the  colour  may  he  even  ; 
by  this  thfd.uk  Cinnamon  is  obtained. 

From  the  dark  Cinnarnon,  t heaver  «^iU 
©btain  a  London  brown,  by  ^d#|ig'Copp?ra$ 
to  his  dye  and  dipping  h  s  cloth,  fro'm  t-me 
to  tiire  till  it  acquires  the  Piade  he.cho  vf-s. 

B.'itifli  mud  is  ftill  arke^j  t<eing.a»{T!:rft  a 
black.  After  the  London  br^a  *-f^  is'ob'ained 
add  the  Iiqu.>r orLogwoec!  .  dve, 

united  with  a  lif.tleCoppejn  ;  i  - :  dip-y^ur 
Lordon  brown,  from  time  to  tiine.  till  you 
ob.ain  ihcil-^adc  defigned. 

Thofc  various  colours,  obtainc-l  by  con- 
forming to  the  foregoing  iVefcris^iion  are 

D    2 


41  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

ftron:  and  good.  Thofe  of  them,  that  are 
djik,  will  neither  fade,  nor  fpot.  The  ftrong- 
eft  acids  'jvill  not  move  theiri. 

N.  B  In  thcfe  colou's,  excepting  the  light 
Cinnamon,  the  oil  of  vitriol  muft  never  be 
negleiled.  Bv  this  ingredient  the  colours 
are  rendered  bright  and  clear. 

In  this  dye,  you  may  colour  an  almoft 
numberlefs  variety  of  fhades,  which  exift  be- 
tween the  lighc  Cinnamon  and  the,  almod, 
bla.k,  B.itifli  mud. 

After  finiftiing  the  high  colour?,  a  litr'e 
bark  of  slnnoft  any  k'nd  may  be  added  to  the 
dye,  which  will  then  give  you  good  browns 
on  coarfe  cloths  for  common  ufe.  This  if 
worthy  the  dyers  obfcrvance. 

Obferve  in  genera^,  that  you  never  put  in 
the  oil  of  virrio',  until  the  gr(,)und  cf  the  col- 
our is  laid  in  the  do  h;  for  if  the  dyer  add 
ever  fj  much  CamwooJ  after  the  oil  is  in,  it 
will  be  entirely  loft. 


ASSISTANT.  43 


CHAP.    VII. 


For  Saxon  Gnen. 

X  A  KE  three  ounces  of  good  In« 
digo,  pound  or  levigate  it  fo  fmall,  as  to  run 
it  through  a  fine  fieve.  Put  your  Indigo, 
thus  prepared,  into  a  foiall  vefTel,  gradually 
add  one  pound  of  the  oil  of  vi  roil  ftirring  it 
for  one  hour.  It  may  then  fland  for  a  day, 
excepting,  tA^o  or  three  times,  in  this  period, 
it  fhou  d  be  worked  in  the  fame  manner  by 
ftirri'ng  it.  Affcr  this  procefsit  is  fit  Lr  ufe. 
In  this  ftare,  the  compound  may  be  pre- 
fervcd  for  a  year,  bting  put  into  a  glafs  bot- 
tle and  coi, fined  with  a  (lopper  of  Bcefwax. 
It  is  the  bc'ter  way,.ro  prepare:*  hum'  er  of 
pounds  of  the  oil,  with  their  proportions  of 
Indigo  J  obferving  to  Ihake,  or  flir  the  en- 
gradients  v^cU  fo-ethf^;^  when  you  wifh  to 
pnur  off  for  ufc.  Thick  cloth  mutl:  not  be 
d}ed  till  it  is  napped,  fhorne  and  all  the  nub« 
picked  off. 


44  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

For  twency  y.uds  of  fulled  cloih,  twfntjr 
five  yards  of  t  aizt,  or  thirty  yards  of  thin 
cloth  i  take  ten  pounds  of  ^o.A  Fuftck, 
chipped  fi  .e  a-^d  put  it  irto  f  e  copper  fill- 
ed witn  clean  wat  cr.  Biin^  the  water  almoft 
to  boil. 

Apj)ly  this  heat  for  eight  or  nine  hours. 
Then  take  out  the  chips,  and  lay  them  where 
they  will  dry  ;  for  they  may  be  afterwirds 
profitably  cmplojed  in  common  drab  col- 
ours. 

Now  have  the  dvc  hot  arddip  your  cloth 
for  h.i'f  an  hour.  Then  take  it  up  fo*-  cooling. 
Add  four  pounds  of  Al;um  to  the  dye  and 
take  off  the  filtb  that  rifes.  Now  dip  again 
for  ;in  h.-ur  ;  then  tak-  up  the  cloth,  bring 
thedye  to  boii,  and  put  in  fcven,  or  eight 
fpoonf'.ds  of  t^he  compouni  of  oil  of  vitriol 
and  Indigo.  L  ec  the  «.^  ye  boil  a  few  minutes, 
ftir  it  wirli :  then  fiip  the  clo(h  half  an  hotyr, 
turn  the  reel  briflclv  anJ  k<:ep  the  cl6:h  6- 
fen.  Now  take  it  up  locool.  Li  this  man.- 
rer  re  ea*:  dipp'iH::  and  cooling  till  the  colour 
is  obcdiiied.  Then  riafc  and  dry  h  for  dref- 
fing. 


ASSISTANT.  45 

Now  without  the  addition  of  any  more 
dyeflufF;  ren  or  twelve  yards  may  be  coloured 
in  the  fame  dye,  of  a  beautiful  pea  green,  by 
dipping  two  or  three  times.  The  doth  alfo 
will  retain  the  colour  tolerably  well. 

'Bo tile  Green, 

Two  methods  are  employed^  to  obtain  this 
colour.  Bv  the  firft  the  cloth  is  brought  to 
a  dark  Saxon  green  j  in  the  next  place  the 
procels  is  the  fame  that  is  followed  in  navy 
blue. 

But  the  colour  is  not  bright  when  obtain- 
ed, and  is  attended  with  more  expence  and 
trouble  than  the  fecond  method,  which  ,w©.c 
ihall  recommend. 

The  prefcription,  for  twenty  yards  of  full- 
ed cloth.  Run  or  dip  it  in  vitriol  water,  in 
the  fame  manner,  as  for  Ravpn  black;  thea 
jjafe  the  cloth  and  empty  the  copper.  In 
Hlie  next  place  take  fix  pounds  of  good  Fuf- 
tick  chips,  and  four  pounds  of  Logwood 
chips  J  boil  them  well  in  the  copper  for 
four  or  ^e  hours.  Then  dip  the  'clcth  f^r 
ha1?^n  hour  j  then  cool  it,  and  thus  proceed 


^5  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

till  the  colour  is  obtained.     After  this  rinHs 
and  dry  it  for  d  efTing. 

N.  B.  If  iheje  be  two  draf:s,  or  packs  of 
clo'.h  to  colour  J  ral;e  our  part  of  the  liquor, 
that  t'le  d';t'  mzy  fqually  colour  each  pack, 
by  occafionall;  adding  the  liquor  again  as 
ycu  need  it. 


CHAP     VKI. 
Fcr  Saxon  Blue* 


B 


'Y  one  fimple  prcrefs,  th's  col- 
our is  obtaired.  All  the  luenfils  nuUbe 
perfeflly  c'ean  j  the  water  in  the  copper  be 
brought:  to  boil. 

The-^  put'in  a  fmall  quantity  oft  he  ccm- 
j:oiincl  made  vfoi'  of  vitriol  snd  Indigo ;' 
after  this  IcT  it  boil  for  u  few  minutes  ;  the 
cloth  bei'g  well  wet  with  warm  water,  is  ihen 
to  be  dipped  for  h\!f  an  hour ;  then  take  it 
np  tcr  coo'.     Follow  this  pioccis  of  dipping 


ASSISTANT.  47 

2nd  cooling  until  you  obtain  the  colour  you 
dtfirc. 

"N.    B.   The  reel  muft  be  turned  brifkly 
and  the  cloth  kept  open  as  it  runs. 


CHAP.    IX. 

For  Snuff  Brown, 

JL  AKE  twenty  yards  of  fulled 
cloth,  run  it  in  a  Copperas  liquor,  the  fame 
as  for  Navy  blue,  Rinfe  the  cloth,  empty 
the  copper.  Next  fill  it  with  clean  wa'er, 
put  in  ten  pounds  of  FuOick  chips  and  one 
buihel  of  Butternut  bark ;  boil  them  for  four 
or  five  hours-;  then  dip  the  cloth  for  l]ialf  an 
hour  i  take  it  up  to  ccol,  and  *foUow  the 
procefs  of  dipping  and  cooling,  till  you  ob- 
tain the  colour  dtfigncd. 

Hcinlock  bark  will  anfwer,  ai  a  fubllitutc, 
for  Butternut ;  but  its*colou'r  i,i' not  fi^;^ood, 
noi  fo  durable. 


4*    .  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'S 

N.  B.  In  this  colour,  it  is  the  better  way 
to  have  the  liquor  of  Fuftick,  and  of  Butter- 
nut, boiled  fcparately,  and  put  into  tubs  to 
be  employed  as  occafun  requires.  If  the 
d)edo  not  bear  fufficiently  upon  the  yellow, 
add  to  it  the  liquor  of  Fuflick  ;  if  the  red  be 
wanting,  employ  the  liquor  of  Butternut, 

By  this  meiho.^,  the  dyer  may  induce  the 
colour  to  meet  hs  fancy. 

Having  obtained  the  firflobjcd  of  the  d;  e, 
if  you  wifli  to  colour  common  browns,  add  to 
it  the  barks  of  yellow  oak  and  hemlock  ; 
boil  them  well  in  the  dye  and  then  yOu  may 
obtain  a  variety  of  Ihades  on  the  brown. 

Remember,  alfo,  that  your  cloth  muft.  be 
well  Copperafed  before  you  run  it  in  the  dye. 

K.  B.  When  you  have  obtained  the  fnuff 
brown,  by  adding  a  lictle  of  the  decoflion  of 
Logwood  the  fame  dye  by  further  dipping 
will  produce  a  London  fmoak. 

P.  S.  By  running  cloth,  which  has  eirher 
of  thefe  colours,  in  a  weak  folution  of  Pearl- 
aflj,  will  give  it  more  vf  a  red  caft» 


ASSISTANT.  49 

CHAP.    X. 

For  Scarlet, 

X^HISisftyledthe  kingof  col- 
ours. But  a  few  ye.ir  finre,  the  fcarlec  was 
firft  produced  from  the  dye:-  of  this  country. 
An  opinion  generally  circulated,  that  the 
waters  of  Anierica  would  not  anfwer  in  this 
dye ;  and  alfo  that  a  veffd  of  filver,  or  pure 
block-tin  was  neccffary  to  contain  the  fcarlc: 
dye.  However,  experience  has  taugh:  us, 
that  thefe  opinions  are  erroneous  and  ground- 
lefs. 

The  wcters  of  this  country  are  as  pure  and 
foft,  as  ihofe  of  Europe.  And  a  brafs,  or 
copper  caldron,  if  well  cleanfed,  will  leave 
the  colour  as  clean  and  bright  as  any  veifer 
whatever.  ^  Brafs  is  to  be  prefered,  fince  it 
is  kept  bright,  with  lefs  trouble. 

To  produce   a  neat  fcarlet  upon  cloths, 
the)'  muO:  be  milled,  napped  and  fliorne,  fit 
for  the  prefs,  before  they  be  dyed ;  as  dreiT-  ; 
E 


^  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

ing  will  tarnifli  the  colour  ;  befide,  this 
method  will  fave  much  dyeftuff,  which  comes 
highly  charged. 

After  the  cloth  is  well  dreHfd  for  the  dye, 
for  feven  pounds  of  cloth,  take  one  pound 
of  /^qua/Griis  duplex  and  one  pound  of  wa- 
ter i  put  them  in  a  glafs  veflTel  j  add  one 
ounce  of  SalamoniaCt  gradually,  having  it 
pounded  fine,  add  half  an  ounce  of  Salniii^e, 
in  the  fame  manntr,  fhake  them  together, 
till  the  falts  are  defolved  j  then  add  to  th« 
compound,  three  ounces  of  granulated  tin  j 
introduce  it  gradually,  till  it  is  all  in.  It 
will  be  well  to  fet,  or  mix  it  in  the  morning, 
then  it  will  be  ready  for  ufe,  the  next  m.orn- 
ing.  So  foon  as  the  tin  is  principally  defolv- 
ed, make  the  veffei  clofe,  with  a  glafs  or 
Beefwax  ftopper.  This  is  then  called  the 
ccmpofuicnfcr  fcarlet. 

The  cloih  being  well  c'ean fed  and  wer,  in 
order  for  "dying,  fill  the  copper  with  pure 
water ;  put  in  three  pounds  of  wheat  bran, 
enclofed  in  a  bag,  made  for  that  ufe  and  tjed 
clofcly.  Let  the  water  boil  j  then  take  out 
(he  bag  of  bran,     Add  to  the  d^c  one  ounce 


ASSISTANT.  ^i 

and  an  \\S\(of  creamtariar  ;  well  pulvcrifed. 
Let  it  boil  a  few  minutes  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  Cochineal.  Boil  fifteen  minutes ; 
then  introduce  one  third  of  the  compofition, 
already  prepared,  and  the  dye  will  change 
from  a  deep,  to  a  blood  red. 

Now  dip  the  cloth  for  an  h«;ir  j  keep  the 
cloth  fpread,  and  let  it  run  brifkly  on  the 
reel.  Take  it  up  to  cool  -,  add  to  the  dye  as 
before  and  dip  for  an  hour  j  take  up  and 
cool  again  ;  add,  dip  and  cool  the  third  time, 
in  the  fame  mannci".  Now  put  into  the  dye, 
two  table  fpoonfuls  of  Turmerech,  well  lev- 
igated J  boil  a  few  minutes ;  dip  the  cloth 
half  an  hour  which  will  be  the  fourth  and 
laft  dipp'ng  ;  then  take  up  and  rinfe  it  well 
for  drying  and  preffing. 

You  will  obferve,  that  the  procefs,  as  wc 
have  dated  it,~ requires  fix  ounces  of  Cochine- 
al, fi^e  ounces  o(  creamiartaVy  one  ounce  of 
SalamoniaCy  hilf  an  ounce  of"  Soln'.tre^  or 
Saltp''.lrry  three  ounces  o^ granulaied  t'n,  to- 
gether with  the  Turmerech  mentiorcd  in  tha 
pic  cription.  Thefe  will  colour  feven  pounds 
of  cloth,  or  rrh^r   goods  in  proportion,   a 


^t  THE  COUNTRY  DY£R's 

beautiful   fcailct  j  equal  to  any  that  is   i«i« 

ported. 

P.  S.  Giftiri-vin  is   a   tr.ftile  by  itfelf  >  ic 

comes  in  various  forms  and  fizei,  from  half 

an  ounce,  to  half  a  pound  in  weight.     It 

gives  a  brij^^ht  appearance. 

To  granuUte  this  tin  is  to  reduce  ic  Into 
fmall  particles,  or  grains,  which  is  dofiC,  in 
the  following  manner.  Take  the  grain-tin 
aYid  melt  it  dowr,  over  a  hot  fire;  then  hold 
i't,  about  two  {^cZy  above  a  piiilfijl  of  clean 
v/ater,  and  b;  fliaking  the  hand,  gradually 
diop  it  into  the  water.  Th£n  take  ic  out  and 
dry  It  for  ufe. 

N.  B  In  colouring,  be  careful  to  pour 
none  of  the  fedanrienr,  of  the  compcfition  in- 
to the  dye. 

Take  off  all  the  filch  that  rifcs  en  the 
fuiface,  previous  to  each  dipping. 

Enter  your  goods  when  the  dye  is  boiling. 

Af  er  the  cloth  is  well  rinfed,  lay  the  nap 
with  a  clean  brufh  ;  then  center.  Afcer  the 
cloth  is  dried,  take  out  all  fpecks,  in  the  clorh, 
with  tweezers.     Prcfs  in  clean  papers,  not 


ASSISTANT,  ft 

hot ;  for  the  heat  of  the  prefs  tarniflies  ih« 
Colour,  or  makes  it  loo  red. 

Barry    Red, 

This  co'our  is  obtained  in  the  faine  meth- 
od as  rhef  arler,  excepting  ihefej  it  req  i«C5 
but  one  half  of  the  cOiV-pofitir-n  f  r  fcarict, 
and  one  ounce  and  an  h'lf  of  Cothineal  for 
every  pound  of  cloth,  togeiher  wirh  t\yo 
ounces  of  Alunn.  The  cloth  you  will  dip 
three  times  as  in  f:arlet,  and  put  in  one  third 
of  the  Alum  earh  tine  previous  to  dipping; 
then  rinfe  for  drying  and  preffing. 

The  barry  is  but  lictle  employed,  exrept 
on  fome  tine  cloths  for  tafty  perfons.  This 
colour  refle£ls  a  fhining  lulUe  j  it  is  teauti- 
ful,  permanent  and  very  exper:five. 

Orange  colour, 

Th's  is  red  and  yellov  united.  Various 
ti:iethods  procure  it  j  and  it  wi'l  he  bright, 
or  dull  ac.:ording  to  ths  ingredients  employ- 
ed to  obtain  ic. 

The  bed  and  bri^h^cfl:  orange  is  raKcdihy 
firft  colouring  the  cloth  fcarjet,  and  then  dip* 
E    2 


14  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'j 

ping  it  in  a  yellow  dye  made  of  Termerech 
and  Fuflick. 

Alfo  it  may  be  obtained  by  colouring  the 
cloth  crimfon  and  then  yellow  ;  or  firrt  dip- 
ping in  Redwood,  or  a  madder  dye,  and  af- 
terwards in  the  yellow  dye.         " 

Howerer,  this  colour,  on  woolens,  is  noE 
much  ufcd  in  this  country. 


CHAP.     XI. 

For   Crimfon. 

J-  HIS  is  the  natural  colour, 
which  Co'hineal  gives  to  woolens  when  boil- 
ed in  Alun  and  Tartar. 

Recife.  Fill  the  copper  with  clean  wa- 
ter i  for  twenty  pounds  of  fulled  cloth,  put 
into  the  copper  two  pound  and  an  half  of 
Alum  }  three  fourths  of  a  poiind  of  cream- 
taitar  j  and  four  quarts  cf  wheat  bran, 
having;  th«  Bower  well  fifted  fiO'.r.  it.  Lee 
ihefe  boil  in   the  copper  till  the  Alum  and 


ASSISTANT.  5i 

Tartar  be  defolved.  Then  dip  the  cloth  for 
an  hour ;  take  it  up  to  cool ;  then  dip  three 
hours.  In  this  dipping,  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  time  theclotk  may  lie  in  the  liquor;  be- 
ing careful,  however,  to  keep  it  undtr  the 
furface  of  the  dye,  that  it  may  equally  re- 
ceive the  fahs.  When  the  cloth  is  taken 
up  cool  it  well  ;  then  fold  it,  and  cover  it, 
for  two  or  three  days  j  in  the  mean  time  ob- 
ferveto  fold  it  over  once  or  twice  in  a  day. 
After  this  rinfe  your  cloth  thoroughly  in  a 
ftream  of  water. 

When  this  is  done  the  cloth  will  give  you 
the  colour  of  a  dark  cream,  and  is  prepared 
to  recieve  the  Cochineal,  Now  empty  il-ic 
copper  and  fupply  it  with  frelh  water. 

When  it  begins  to  boil,  put  in  half  an 
ounce  of  Cochineal  and  half  an  ounce  of 
creamtartar  pulverifed  to  every  poundofcloth. 
Let  it  boil  for  twenty  minutes  -,  then  dip 
the  c'oth  foi  one  ho-jr  ;  take  up,  and  cool. 
Addas  much  more  of  the  .Cochineal,  to  the 
dye,  as  you  put  in  the  fir  ft  time.  Proceed 
to  dip  and  cool  as  before,  for  two  or  three 
times ;  now  the  pores  of  the  wool  will  rc^- 


56-  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

ceive  the  Cochineal,  which  v,\\\  beftowon  the 
cloth  a  beautiful  crimfon,  that  is  permar^iat. 

Now  rinfe  and  d'-y  for  prtfllng. 

N,  B.  All  cloth  defigned  to  be  coloured, 
fho  )ld  be  napped,  (home  and  the  nubs 
cut  off,  bcfoic  it  is  dyed. 


CHAP.   x:i. 

For  Madder  rtd, 

1  HE  pr(=paration  for  this  dye 
is  fimilar  to  that  t.f  crimfon.  For  ore  p^und 
of  cloih,  put  in  the  copper  four  ouncts  of 
Aiiim,  ( ne  ounce  ofied  larrir,  and  ih« 
fame  qr.antity  of  ^^heut  brai¥  ns  yoj  employ 
in  criir  fi.>n.  Observe  the  ian':e  proccfs  in 
di|'p:ng  aud  cool'ng. 

Ft  r  the  next  proofs  emp'v,  and  fill  )Our 
copper  a  a''n.  When  she  water  h.^s  arquin- 
cd  thesvarrrth  tiat  vou  can  jut\  endure  youT 
hard  in  it  ;  f  r  c  -rv  pound  of  cioih/pncin 
half  a  pound  ^f  the  bell  Madder.     Be  care- 


ASSISTANT.  57 

ful  to  mix  it  well  in  the  copper,  before  you 
introduce  the  cloih.  Then  dip  for  an  hour. 
Obierve,  at  the  fame  time,  that  the  dye  muft 
not  have  more  than  half  the  heat,  which 
would  be  neceflary  to  boil  it.  If  the  dye 
be  too  hot.  It  will  tarnilli  the  colour. 

Having  dipped,  for  one  houff,  take  up  the 
cloth  for  cooling.  ^  Then  dip,  fhortdips  two 
or  three  times,  that  the  colour  may  be  equal 
and  the  ftrength  of  the  Madder  received. 

N.  B.  It  is  a  good'method  to  foak  the 
Madder,  feveral  hours  in  four  beer,  or  four 
bran  water,  befo:e  it  is  employed  in. the  dye. 

Midder-red  is  a  beautiful  and  peniianen: 
colour. 


CHAP.     Xllf. 

Fcr  Pink  cokur^ 

HIS  isafairtred.  The  bed 
are  obtained  in  the  fcarlet  dye.  The  other 
method  to  obtain  it  is  in  the  crimfon,  or 


4t  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'» 

madder  dye  ;  but  this  does  not  aftbrd  lo  good, 
or  fo  bright  a  colour. 

Pinks  are  generally  ufcd  for  womenj  (kirts  j 
and  fometinnes  for  bed  coverings. 

Thedyer  may  colour  good  pinks  in  the 
fame  liquor,  whence  he  has  obtained  his 
fcarler,  before  he  has  put  in  the  Termerech. 
Termerech  tarnifhes  the  pink.  Add,  to  the 
dye,  about  half  an  ounce  of  Cochineal,  to 
every  pound  of  clothe  Dip  two  h^urs,  then 
cool  and  rinfc  forpitfiing. 

There  will  be  a  fufficient  quanriry  of  f^ir- 
its  left  in  the  fcarlct  dye,  after  you  have  col- 
oured twenty  pounds  ofcloth,  to  give  a  good 
pink  colour  to  fcven  or  eig'it  pounds  more. 

If  you  colour  pinl;s  in  a  crirn'oi,  or  mad- 
der dye,  proportion  your  dyefiuff  according 
to  the  flTade  required. 

This  method  of  colouring  piaks  \>ill  be  a 
faring  to  the  dyer 

If  you  have  pinks  to  colour  and  no  fear- 
let,  pro.eed  in  the  fame  way,  as.  f  r  fcarlet ; 
obierving,  at  the  fame  time,  that  j>inks  will 
not  require  more  thin  one  thi-d  of  the  dye- 
ftuff,  which  ycu  put  in  for  full  fcarlet. 


ASSISTANT.  59' 

If  the  dyer  wi(h  to  colour  Liloch  ;  take 
the  cloth  after  it  is  dyed  fcarlet  pink,  and  run 
it  in  a  weak  liquor  of  Logwood  adding  to  it, 
one»  or  two  table  fpoanfuls  of  the  oil  of  vitri- 
ol, for  fix  or  feven  yards  of  cloth.  Let  it  boil, 
for  a  few  minutes  after  the  oil  is  in  before 
you  dip  the  cloth. 

N.  B.  By  adding  to,  or  diminifhing  the 
ftrength  of  thedyeftufF,  you  may  produce  a 
variety  of  fiiadcs,  in  colouring  pink  and  Le- 
loch. 


CHAP.     XIV. 

For  Purple. 

In  the  f?r9:  ages  of  the  world, 
this  was  cfteeme.i  the  richcftcf  all  colours. 
Purple  was  the  co';our  of  garments  that  deiig- 
nated  men,  who  ucre  diftirguifhtd,  by  their 
ci  il  and  religious  (lations. 

That   beaut'N.il  colour   is   obtaiHcd  ficm 
a  fnc li  fiili,    rcff^mblirg  the    Oyiler.     It  is 


6o  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

taken  on  the  coaft  of  Paleilinc.  Without 
any  other  ingredient,  this  fiili,  ca'led  thc- 
purple,  gives  a  bright  and  lading  colour  to 
al]  goods  that  have  received  Its  imprcffion. 
But  this  dyelluEF  comes  fo  highly  charged, 
that  it  has  never  been  much  employed  in 
any  part  of  Europe. 

The  Grecians  fou»d  a  fubftiture,  for  this 
purple  in  a  plant,  or  was  what  they  called 
Amcrzts.  But  ni:liher  of  thefe  n-ethods  will 
ever  be  attended  in  this  part  of  the  world,  as 
both  are  expenfive, 

For  the  purples  now  obtained,  you  muft 
make  dye  for  crimfcn  and  bring  your  c:cth  to 
that  colour  according  to  the  nnethod  prefcrib- 
ed  for  that  dye.  After  this  dip  your  cloth  in 
the  blue  vat  until  it  has  obtained  the  purple 
fhade,  which  you  choofe  to  imprefs.  The 
colour  will  be  bright  and  permanenr. 

N.  B..  For  purple,  dip  the  cloth  ifi  the  In- 
digo vat  when  ihe  dye  is  weak. 

It  is  nnuch  the  better  method,  to  nap  well, 
and  fhear   the  cloth,  before  it  is  coloured. 

When  dyed,  rinfe  it  thoroughly.  You 
"frould  do  well  to  fcour  it  through  the  mill. 


ASSISTANT.  fii 

in  a  weak  fuds,  after  it  is  rinfed  ;  that  the 
cl<^th  may  be  cleanfcd  fr(  m  thedifagreeable 
faicll,  which  it  takci  from  the  blue  vat. 


CHAP.     XV. 

Clarci  frem  Redwood^ 


Ti 


HIS  colour  is  but  little  ufed 
at  the  prefent  diy,  because  it  foon  fades. 
Almoll  ay  acid  liquor  will  fpot  ir.  Cam- 
w  o  I  ^  ill  produce,  almoft  as  bright  a  clar- 
et, as  Redwood,   and  it§  colour  is  durable. 

Prrfcription  fcr  claret  frjm  Redwood. 

The  cloth  muH  be  well  prepared  in  Alum 
and  red  Tartar.  The  copper  being  fiiled 
v?ith  clean  uater,  fort^'enty  3  ards  of  fulled 
clot4i,  pii'  In  th  ce  pounds  of  Alum  and  half 
a  pound  ofred  Tarfar.  Lei  ihem  boil,  till 
veil  dcTo.vcd.  Then  dp  'he  coh  Ur  half 
an  hour ;  eoj;  i',  therj  dip  three  hours  :  \(- 
tcr  tti,s,cooi  and  rinfe  acIi  tne  cloth  in  run- 
F 


€i  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

ring  water.  Now  emp^y  the  copper  and 
fi  I  agun  with  water.  Put  in  nifte  pouods 
of  Redwood  and  two  pounds  of  Lof^wood, 
chipped  very  fi.  e.  B^il  them  three  or  four 
hours  ;  then  dip  the  cloth  f  r  half  an  hour; 
then  darken  the  fhade  with  Verdegrife.  The 
Verdegrife  muft  be  ground  with  urine  to  a 
pafte,  of  the  fame  confiftency  as  the  ci!  and 
Irdigo  for  green.  The  d)er  will  add  about 
one  tea-fpoonful  of  the  Verdegrife,  thus  pre- 
pared, to  the  dye,  mixing  it  we  1  with  rhc 
liquor;  then  d'p  h^lf  an  hour;  then  cooJ. 
Thus  proceed  till  the  colour  dcfired  is  ob- 
tained. 

If  [he  d\«jr  wifh  to  colour  Redwood  red, 
he  muft  omit  the  LOj:wood  and  Verdej^rife, 
and  add  a  little  more  Redwood. 

Some  dyers  darken  the  fhade  with  Cop- 
peras ;  but  it  will  not  give  fo  bright  a  col- 
our as  Verdegrife.  But,  .s  has  been  obferv- 
ed.  this  colour  foon  fades. 

However,  upon  fome  goods,  Rtsdwood 
will  beflcw  a  good  colour,  by  oblerving  the 
folli.wing  dirtdion.  Prepare  your  goods,  as 
before  prefcribed,  and  put  them  into  a  brafs 


ASSISTANT.  6t 

kettle,  with  the  Redwood.  Let  them  foak 
for  nine  o^^tcn  davs.  By  this  mtthod  you 
may  obtain  a  good  red,  on  yarn,  wlii  h  vnll 
bear  wafliing  in  foip  lud,  which  will  render 
the  colour  darker  and  brighrer.  .  In  this  way 
Wwmen  may  c()!our  their  own  varn  j  but  cloth 
will  not  receive  the  colour  equally. 

mmmmmtmmmmmmmtomui 


CHAP.     XVI. 
Buff]  cr  cream  cclour. 

A  HIS  is  but  little  ufcd,  except 
in  men's  foiaU  clothes.  To  produce  this  col- 
our, for  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  fill  the 
coppt-r  with  pure  v/ater  j  all  the  thing's  em- 
ployed rnuO:  be  peifedly  clean;  bring  tlie 
water  almoft  to  boil;  then  put  intone  quart 
of  clear  and  ftrong  Fudiclc  liquor;  mix /t 
wdl  with  the  water ;  then  dip  the  cloth  an 
hour;  keep  it  open,  and  run  it  brifkly  over 
the  reel.     When  the  cloth  is  taken  up,  the 


^  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

dyer  wiU  hardly  perceive  it  has  changed 
from  the  colour  of  the  wooi. 

Mow  add  to  thecl>c  about  half  a  la' le- 
fpoonful  of  .lear  oil  vitriol  j  then  dip  for 
half  an  hour  ;  cool  rhe  cloth,  and  if  ii  he  not 
fwfficicrncly  dark  add  a  litde  njore  of  the  oil 
and  dip  again;  perhaps  tepea^ed  dipping* 
may  be  required. 

However,  thi^  colour  ii  api  tnhf  too  dark 
rather  than  light.  When  ih^  colour  i»  ob- 
ttti:  eJ,  ihedyer  uuH:  pu.  Hriift  a"e  lio"*  uid 
rinfe  the  Juth  innrediately,  left  it  coli^ft 
dirt  and  fpots.  This  colour  is  bcautiiul, 
pciuianent  and  will  endure  wafhing. 


CHAP.    xvir. 

For<aJh  colour,  uilh  Nutgals, 

*  X  OR  twenty  \ards  of  fulled 
cloth,  put  into  the  copper  three  or  four  ta- 
ble-fpoonfu'S  ofthe  flour  of  Nutgals,  that 
is,  they  muft  be  weil  levigated.   Let  the  dye 


ASSISTANT.  fiS 

boil  for  half  an  hour ;  then  dip  half  an  hour  j 
take  up  and  cool  the  cloth.  Now  add  to 
the  dye  a  piece  of  Alum  about  the  fize  of  a 
Quail's  egg  ;  let  it  boil,  being  cjrefulto  take 
off  the  filth  that  rifes  on  the  furface  of  the 
dye. 

Now  dip  the  cloth  half  an  hour,  keeping 
it  open  and  run  ning  on  the  reel  j  lake  up  and 
cool  it.  Now  add  to  the  dye  a  tea-fpoonful 
of  Copperas  and  dip  as  before,  till  the  colour 
be  obtained. 

If  the  dyer  think  proper,  he  may  increr.fe 
the  quantity  of  Copperas  as  the  colour  dark- 
ens; however  he  need  be  cautious,  how  he 
employs  it.  Experience  will  fooa  teach  him* 
Where  Nutgals  cannot  be  obtained,  alh  may 
be  coloured  with  barks.  ForP  ^'quantity 
of  cloth,  above  named,  take  one  peck  of  yel- 
low birch  bark,  as  much  of  white  afh  bark, 
well  rofled,  and  two  quarts  of  Saifafras  bark, 
boil  them  well  together  for  tv.o  or  three 
hours  i  then  take  cut  all  the'  biir^s  and  dip 
two,  or  three  limes,  as  in  other  dyes ;.  then 
the  cloth  is  faid  to  be  grounded,or' to  have 
reccired  the  foundation  of  the  coloirr/:  ^ftev 
F    2 


6^  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

this  darken  the  fhade,  by  the  addition  of 
Copperas,  ihefanrie  as  in  the  dye  of  Nutgals, 
only  this  will  require  a  little  more  Copperas. 
This  method  of  dying  afli,  produces  a  de- 
cent colour. 

For  Slate. 

When  the  cloth  has  obtained  a  dark  alh, 
ciiher  from  Nutgals,  or  bar!*  s,  run  it  in  a  weak 
deco6lion  of  Logwood.     Repei^t  the«cj.era-- 
tion  ;  if  neceffirv,  add  a  little  Copperas  un- 
till  the  colour  defired,  is  produotrd. 

At  firft.  Slate  appears  beaurif-J  ;  but  it 
foon  fades,  and  leaves  to  the  cloth,  only  a- 
poor,  dirt; ,  aih  colour. 


CHAP.     XVIII. 

For  Foreji  Drab. 

A  HIS  colour  is  much  ufed,  on 
cloths  for  great  coats  and  is  (uiiable  for  fuch 
garments- 


ASSISTANT.  Gj 

For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  coth;  your 
eopper  being  filled  with  pure  water,  put  ifi 
a  pailful  of  Sumach,  chipped  fie,  one  pound 
of  Fuftick,  half  a  pail  of  Alder  h^ik  .2nd  two 
ounces  of  Nurgals,  well  pounded.  Boil 
them  together  three,  or  four  hovirs.  Now 
dip  half  an  hour  J  then  cool.  Obferve  this 
procefs  of  dipping  and  cooling  two,  or  threa 
times.  However  previous  to  dipping  the  kft 
time,  put  in  apiece  ofAluii,  thebigr.efsofa 
Quail's  egg. 

See  that  the  fcum  is  taken  off^,  every  time 
you  dip.  Having  dipped  once  af  er  the  Al- 
um is  in,  the  cloth  will  obtain  its  ground 
woik. 

Tak    it  up,  and  add  a   fmall  handful  of 
Gopteras  to  the  dve  ;  then  dip  the  cloth  half 
an  hour;  take  up  and  *  ool.     ThuspfOceed>' 
til'  fh? '.'olourdefirei  is  o'nca>aed. 

N,  B  Iccrea'e  ttie  qi-.a-tity  of  Copperas 
every  I'me  you  dip  uivi  cloth.  Rinfe  well 
for  dri-ijji>g. 

'iyi!s  cij'our  \s  iuciinedto  darken. 
P.S.  B\  adding  a  lit- leye  low  oakjHemlocky 
or  Butternut  bark  to  the  d}e,  and  boiling  it 


68  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

well,  a  cheap  and  good  brown  colour  may  be 
produced,  which  many  pcoplepiefer  for  com. 
men  ufe. 


CHAP     XIX. 
For  Sage  Green » 

Jl  his  colour  is  obtained  with 
cafe  and  little  experfe. 

Grou'-d  your  cloh  in  the  hufks  or  fhells 
of  the  walnut,  nnd  darken  itwuhihs;  com- 
pound of  oil    vitriol  and  Indigo^  '■ 

Far  twenty  vards  of  fulled  cloth,  ;  ui  into 
the  copper  of  clean  water,  one  pailful  of 
walnut  (hells.  Boil  them  well  for  three 
hours  J  •headiptwoci  three  times fo'- ground- 
ing. After  thj-,  add  one  tabie-^pornfui  of 
the  CO  npouTid  ;  flirthedyej  :hei  dip  lialf 
an  hour;  til^c  up  :^nd  cool;  thus  proceed 
from  time  to  time  till  thecoiour  meets  your 


ASSISTANT.  €9 

This  green,  rcfen  bling  the  Sage  leaf, 
when,  in  falhi  )n,  appears  beautiful. 

Ifh::  CO  np  )an J  K  lefc  cur,  aid  red  Tar- 
tar empi^iyed,  in  iieu  of  1,  after  beirg  dip- 
ped in  ihe  p:round  work  j  the  cloth  wi'l  pre- 
fent  you  afawn  colour  vshi.h  is  duiajle. 

Ted  Green* 

When  you  h^'-e  Cf. Inured  Saxon  green8>. 
be'n  /  carcf  r  ih;Ut  e  d\e  is  we^k  ;  cloth  be- 
ing well  wcc,  '^Ith  warm  v^at;  1  is  introduced 
to  that  dye,  to  coloi  r  peu  green.  Run  it  in 
the  dse  two,  or  three  ti>iiei  for  half  an  hour, 
each  time.  This  is  a  faint  colour  snd  mud 
be  itteided  with  care  to  picferve  it  from 
fpotiing. 


CHAP.     XX. 

Pearl  cclour,. 

X  EARL  is  a   light  brown  beir- 
ing  on  the  b:uc.     It  appears  to  have  pafltd. 


fB  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'i 

ba- a  foTiU  chaa  ;e  from  the,  :v^hite.  No 
coiCur  i-  mi-rc  Gclicate  ;  noae  more  diiScult 
to  Q-  lain. 

D-crs  in  gene-a',  give  th:  Pr.iH  too  c^ark 
a  ihi  le.  Giejt  actr-rxion  muft  be  tilcwed, 
to  fix  the  p,  per  ti  ■:,  wbkh  dtfctvjes  the 
naifie  of  Pear!  "Cilour. 

Ali  uunfiKv  muil  be  as  clean,  as  though 
you  were  to  handle  fine  HoJand  cloth  wiih- 
ouc  Juileying  it. 

Thr  c  .pper  being  filled,  with  water,  it 
fnould  boii  J  then  put  in  o  e  tea-fpoo^ful  of 
Nutgsls,  veil  pounded  and  fiftcd  ;  boil  them 
fifceej  minutes.  Twenty  yards  of  fulled 
cloth,  being  well  wet,  in  warm  water, 
now  dip  for  ha'fan  hour  •  take  up  and  cool. 
Kow  add  to  the  dye  the  fannc  quariity  of 
Nurgalsj  then  dip  and  cool  af' before.  Put 
in  the  fame  quanLiry  of  Xurgals;  then  dip 
and  cool  £s  before. 

Now  add  to  the  dye  a  piece  of  Copperas 
the  fize  of  a  fnow-bird's  egg,  apiece  of  Alum 
the  fize  of  a  walnut,  and  half  a  tea-fpoonful 
of  the  compound,  oil  vitriol  and  Indigo  j  let 
them  boil  Hiring  ihem  well  together;  then 


ASSISTANT.  7» 

dio  IS  before;  cool,  and  thus  pro<?eed,  by 
dipping  and  cooling ;  leaveout  the  Co^  peras 
and  gradually  increafe  the  compound  of  the 
oil  every  tinne  the  cloth  is  entered. 

Perhaps  the  cloth,  from  the  fi  ft,  to  the 
laft  of  theprocefs,  mu'l  be  dipped  e^ght  or 
ten  tine?.  Stnft  attention  mull  be  given  to 
the'e  prefcriptlons.  Bv  a  careful  conformity 
to  them  the  colour  will  t^c  full.  li^i^htV  and 
beautiful.  Now  rinfe  for  dreflfrg.  Nap 
with  cards,  or  j^cks,  that  are  perfedly  c'ean. 

Take  that  fide  of  the  cloth,  whi^h  is  the 
moft  even,  for  the  face. 


■a 


C  H  4/P,    nXU 
For  dark  Brab  hromi. 

£  OR  twenty  firds  of'.,  fulled 
clO'h,.|)ut  in[affh"5:<xopper,,^lP  a  bufhe)  of 
Hemlock  b  jrk  i^nd  one'  jpieck  of  yeilow  o.l:, 
or  walnut  bark  j'  boil  them  till  th^  firtrp^th 
of  the  barks  is  extrafleci;   then  take  out  the 


7«  THE  COUNTRY  DYER»« 

bark.  Dip  and  cool,  two  or  three  times,  as 
in  Jaying  the  ground  of  other  dyes.  Then 
raife  the  colour  with  Copperas;  dipping 
and  cooHiig,  urgl  it  become  as  dark  as  you 
dcfirc. 

H  >wever,  the  dver,  if  he  pleafe  may  pre- 
pare h  s  tloth,  in  Coppe  as,  the  fame,  as  in 
Navy  b  ue,  and  then  run  ii  in  the  decodion 
above  meniioned. 


CHAP.     XXII. 
Olive  Green, 

1  N  this  colour,  ^ha  yel'ow  Oia.^c 
prfdoT'i nates,  andis  conredfd  v\ith  a  tin.  of 
the  light  b'ue.  To  o"^  ain  this  co'o-ir, 
bi  ng  \ht  c^oh  i.p  to  a  ful!  yellow  j  ihin  add 
th"  rompound  of  oil  and  Jn  ligo,  in  frail 
qu  niii.ic-s  Dpthecloth  a  nunr  ber  of  tiines, 
unii!  its  colo  T  meet  your  fsn'y. 

Thi!)x:oluUi  is  bright,  aud  is  not  fo  much 


ASSISTANT.  74 

difpofed  to  fade  as  fome  others ;  neither  is  it 
fo  durable  as  lome. 

Sea   Green. 

By  various  methods,  this  colour  lis  ob  ain- 
ed.  Its  appearance  is  dull  and  heavy.  How- 
ever, it  is  like  many  others,  fo.iietitnes  fadi- 
ionable. 

The  beftmethod  ofpro:uring  a  Tea  green; 
is  to  make  the  cloth  a  Saxon  green  j  not  fo 
full  of  yellow  and  bearing  more  on  the  blue^ 
than  a  bright  green.  Rinfe  your  cloth  j 
make  a  new  liquor  of  Butternut  or  Hem* 
lock  bark  ;  dip  the  cloth  and  darken  the 
Ihade  with  Copewfs. '  Dip  the  cloth  two  or 
three  times  j  if  it  do  not  darken  to  your 
wi(h,  add  a  fmall  quantity  of  Logwood  liq- 
uor i  then  dip  till  it  faits.  Novv  cool  and 
rinfe  for  dreffinsr. 

Fawn  colour. 

This   is  a  lightifli  fandy   brown  j   being 

very  permanent,  it  is  called  one  of  the  priiri*. 

tive  colours.     The  better  way,  to  produce  it 

is  by  obierving  the  following  recipe.     Fur 

G 


74  THE  COUNtRY  DYER's 

twenty  yards  of  fulled  cfoth,  take  two  pail- 
fuls  of  Walnut  fhel)^,  or  hulks,  put  them 
into  the  copper  with  clean  water.  Let  thenti 
boil  thoroUj^hly  ;  then  dip  two  or  three  times. 
Now  add  four  ounces  of  crude,  or  red  Tartar  j 
dip  again  and  the  colour  will  be  good  and 
durable,  obtained  with  eale  and  little  ex- 
pen  fe. 

N.  B.  The  (hells  of  the  walnuts  fhould  be 
gathered  and  fccured  imxediately  after  the 
the  nut  is  ripe. 


CHAP.    XXIII. 

Tellow, 

A  HIS  is  frequently  needed  for 
baize  j  and  fometrriies  to  mix  wiih  other  dye- 
ftuff" ;  fuch  as  greens  and  fnuff"  browns  and 
in  a  number  of  other  (hades,  which,  without 
yellow,  could  not  be  obtained  j  hence  this 
colour  is  of  imponance  to  all  dyers. 


ASSISTANT.  75^ 

Ternncrcch  produces  the  beft  yellow.  For 
tv  enty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  put  into  the  cop- 
per, two  pounds  of  Alum  and  four  ounces 
of  creann  tartar  ;  let  them  be  well  diflblvedj 
then  boil  the  dye  and  dip  the  cloth,  two  or 
three  times,  for  an  hour  each  tinne,  cool  ai 
often  as  you  dip.  Now  rinfe  the  cloth,  cnnp- 
ty  the  copper,  and  fill  with  clean  water. 
When  the  water  boi^s,  having  the  Tcrmer- 
cch  well  pounded,  add  four  or  five  table- 
fpoonfuls  of  it  to  the  dye  j  boil  a  few  min- 
-utes,  then  dip  the  do  h  half  an  hour  ;  cool, 
and  thus  proceed  until  the  colour  meets 
your  fancy. 

This  colour  is  bright  and  lively. 

By  this  nnethod,  you  rr.ay  obtain  an  innu- 
merable variety  of  fhades,  that  may  exifl;  be- 
tween the  ftraw  colour  and  the  full  yellow. 
However,  it  is  expenfive,  and  is  not  much 
employed  on  cloths  in  America, 

N.  B.  The  dyer  will  remember  the  light- 
er the  fliade  ^is,  which  he  means  to  give,  in 
the  fame  proportion,  he  muft  decreafc  th« 
quantity  of  /llum  and  Tartar, 


^5  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Ir  lieu  of  Termcrech,  yellow  may  be  col- 
oured with  Fuftirk  liquor.  Add,  according 
to  the  fliade  you  choofc  to  produce.  How- 
ever, this  colour  is  not  bright,  but  looki 
dull ;  yet  it  will  make  good  greens  andoth* 
er  colours,  on  the  brown  (hade. 


C   H   A   P.     XXIV. 
Olive  Brown, 


T 


HIS  colour  is  cafily  obtained. 
Fi  9",  Copperas  thecloth  as  in  Navy  Hlue, 
only  heic  for  twenty  yiirds  of  cloth,  add  to 
the  Cppperasliquor  half  a  pound  cf  Roman 
vitriol.  Empty  and  make  a  nevv  liquor,  of 
I^^^'k.  y..d  ten  pounds  j  dip  the  cloth  two, 
Oi  lies  till  the  colour  rifcs  to  your 

pkafur...        '  fn  rinfe  and  dry  fordrefling... 
"  '  ■  willjappeap  dark,,  bright  ^and 


ASSISTANT.  77 

Ohftrvations» 

Having  attempted  to  render  the  prefcrip- 
tions  for  the  colours,  in  the  previous  work, 
as  plain  and  intelligible  as  poffib!c  i  ihe  dy- 
er may  eafily  follow  them.  If  he  will  attend 
to  the  nature  of  various  dyellufFs  and  ob- 
ftf /e  how  they  agree,  or  difagree,  when  mix- 
ed ;  he  will,  in^conformity  to  the  foregcing 
RecipeSy  foon  be  able  to  fix  on  any  colour  or 
pattern  that  may  be  prefented  to  him. 

Though  there  be  but  feven  primative  col- 
ours in  nature,  yet  an  almoft  ip.finice  variety 
of  fhades  may  be  attained  from  them.  Too 
many  to  enumerate,  in  fo  fmall  a  volume. 

To  avoid  repetitions,  in  the  {refcriptions^ 
given,  for  various  dyes,  mark  this  as  a  (land- 
ing rule  :  If  the  dye  boil  when  you  are  ready 
to  enter  the  cloth,  check  it  with  two  or  three 
quarts  of  cold  water^  and  flir  the  liquor  well 
before  dipping. 

This  fhould  always  be  obferved,  except 
in  fcarlet,  barry,  crimfon   and  pinks,   ihcfc 

G  2 


jB  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'j 

fhould  be  entered,  whca  the  dye  is  boiling 
and  the  dye  kept  as  hot  as  pofTible  while  dip- 
ing. 


CHAP.     XXV. 

On  whitening  woolen,  cloth, 

jTjL  close,  convenient  room  i* 
ncccflary  for  this  purpofe.      It  fliculd  be 
prepared  with  window-lhutters,  which  may 
be  thrown  open,  when  neceffary.     A   fuffi- 
cient  quantity  of  tenterhooks  fliould  be  plac- 
ed Jm  the  joifts  to  hold  up  the  cloth  while 
whitening    The  cloth  being  clean  and  moid,, 
not  fo  wet  as  to  drip,  the  worknnan  hangs  it, 
by  the  felvage,  on  the  hooks;   beginning  at 
one  end  and  proceeding  to  the  other,  keep- 
ing it  fprcad,  that  one  part  may  not  fold  on 
another.  For  twenty  yards  of  cloth  take  two 
pounds  of  fulphur^  grofsly  beaten,  put  it  into 
three,  or  four  iron  pans  or  kettles,  placed  in 
different  pirts  of  the  room  j  fprinklc  afhes 


ASSISTANT,  7i 

over  the  fulphur,  and  fei  it  on  fire  j  fhut  the 
room  clofe  for  ten  hours.  Then,  going  the 
outfide,  throw  open  the  window-fhutters,  to 
let  the  fulpherous  vapour  blow  off.  For  any 
perfon  to  enter  fuch  a  room  before  it  is  ven- 
tuhtcd,  he  would  be  in  danger  of  fuffocation. 

By  this  proceedure,  woolen  cloth  may  be 
rendered    as  white  as  fine  India  fhirting. 

Stockings,  or  hofe  and  other  fmall  things 
may   be  whitened  under  a  long  tub. 


CHAP.      XXVI. 

On  mhing  colours  three  by  three. 


u      " 


J3lUE,  red  and  yellow,  pro- 
'*  du:c  ruddy  olives,  greenifh  greys  and  other 
"colours  of  the  fame  kind. 

•*When,  the  mixture  contains  blue  it  is 
**  ufual  to  begin  with  that  colour. 

''Blue,  red  and  fawn,  produce  from  the 
"darkeft  to  the  iighteft. 


«••         .     THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

"  Blue, red  and  black  prod«ce  a  numerous 
"variety  of  all  fhades. 

•'*  Blue,  yellow  and  fawn  produce  greens 
"and  olives  of  all  kinds. 

"  Blue,  yellow  and  black  produce  all  dark 
"greens  to  a  black. 

"  Blue,  fawn  and  black  produce  olives  and 
"  greeniOi  greys.     Red,   yellow  and    fawn  ■ 
"  produce  orange   and   gold  colour,   burnt 
"  cinnamon  and  tobacco  ccloursof  all  kinds, 

"  Red,  yellow  and  black  produce  a 
"colour,  which  refembles  a  withered  leaf. 

"  Laftly  from  yellow  fawn  and  black,  you 
**  obtain  hair  colour,  nut  brown  &c. 

"  Four  of  thefe  colours  nriay  be  mixed  to- 
"  gether,  and  lometimes  five  j  but  this  is  not 
"ufual. 

*'  It  is  needlefs  ro  enlarge  upon  this  fub- 
"  jeft.  I  fhall  only  obferve,  that  forty  difFer- 
"  ent  ftiades  may  be  obtained  from  each  coU 
"our 

•*  The  defign  of  this  enumeration  is  only 
"to  give  a  general  idea  of  the   ingredients, 
"  that  are  piopcr,  for   ths    produf^ion  uf  coJ- 
"  ours  compofed  of  fevcral  oihers.'* 


ASSISTANT. 


CHAP.     XXVII. 

Fqt  dying  and  drejjtng  Fujiian,   Cotton  and 
Linen. 

1  HE  cloth  dcfigned  for  Fuf- 
tian,  whether  waled,  or  plain.  The  waled 
Fuftian  is  fo  woven,  that  the  filling:  li-s  on 
that  fide  of  the  cloth  defigned  for  the.  face. 
The  p  ain,  'iS  woven,  hke  common  cloih* 
The  filling  mud  be  cotton,  beaten  up  clofely, 
that  it  may  bear  napping.  Your  cioih 
fhould  be  napped,  before  it  is  coloured,  that 
the  dye  nn.ay  penetrate  into  the  pores  of  the 
fluff. 

Cotton  and  linen  cloth  is  hard  to  be  col- 
oured. 

Tc»  nap  Fuflian,  you  fiiould  have  a  ftool 
to  nap  over  ;  one  that  will  Hand  firmly  ;  it 
may  be  twenty  inches  wide,  covered,  and  a 
littl«  erowning  in  the  middle,  with  a  defign 
for  the  Teafels  to  take  hold  on  the  cotton  to 
raife  a  nap. 


St  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'i 

Hook,  or  make  f.ft  the  clo  h,  to  :he  edge 
of  the  ftool  i  oppofite  to  the  fide  on  which 
the  workman  (la'^ds.  Dr^w  the  doth  fo 
that  it  may  n9t  rinklc,  wh^le  napping  ;  if  it 
fhould,  Teafcis  taking  fliung  h  Id,  might, 
tear  and  injure  the  cloih.  The  cloih  bring, 
thus  prepa  ed,  begin  at  one  end  j  having 
two  hands  of  Teafcls,  draw  one  after  tht*  oth- 
er, on  ihe  Cioth,  :lil  a  thick,  rap  is  raiTed. 
Thus  proceed  until  you  have  ^nifhed  the 
piece. 

Cut  off,  with  fmall  Ihears,  aU  nubs  that 
appear. 

They  ought  D©t  to  be  cxtrafled,  with 
Tweazers,  for.thf^y  will  leave  holes  in  the 
clcth. 

If  Teafels  cannot  be  obtained,  the  nap 
mud  be  raifed  wiih  clothiers  ^'tf^^/.  Their 
teeth  mud  be  fliarpened  on  a  griodftoce. 
However,  this  is  an  uncomfortable  way  to 
nap  Fullian.  Teafcls  are  nn'uch  cheaper  and 
better.  Every  clothier  ought  to  cultiyate. 
them,  v^hich  hemay  do,  with  little  trouble. 

Fuftian  may  be  napped  and  fhorn,  till  it 
will  appear  as  beautiful  as  broad-cloth  j  but 


ASSISTANT.  83 

it  \vill  be  expenfive  to  the  clothier,  and  un- 
profitable to  the  owner. 

For  f-venty  yards  of  waled  Fuftian,  or 
twenty-five  of  plain  well  napped  and  ready 
for  the  dye  ;  fill  the  copper  with  clean  wa- 
ter, put  in  one  pound  and  an  half  of  Copper- 
as and  one  pound  of  Ro  nan  vitriol  j  boil 
them  together  and  take  off  the  filth  that  lif- 
es.  Then  dip  ;  keep  the  cloth  open  on  the 
reel  j  run  it  brifkly  for  one  hour  j  at  the  fame 
ti  ne  give  as  mujh  heat  to  your  dye  as  pofli- 
ble.  Now  take  up  to  cool  j  dip  again,  in 
the  fame  liquor,  for  two  hours  j  then  take 
up,  cool  and  ri-fe  the  cloth  wel  .  Empty  the 
copper  a.-'d  fill  again  with  water ;  put  in 
tigh*  pounds  of  good  Fuftick,  chipped  t'mall; 
boil  it  four  or  five  hours;  then  dip  an  hour ; 
takt  up  and  cool ;  dip  and  00*^1  again,  and 
fo  proceed  till  the  colour  rife  to  the  pattern 
you  chojfe. 

Rinfe  well,  and  after  the  cloch  is  dry, 
raifc  the  nap  with  jacks  and  give  a  light 
preffing. 

This  method  is  to  be  prcfered,  as  it  leaves 
the'  cofonr  bright  and  clear. 


84  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'S 

If  thedycr  wifli  to  give  a  ligh-er  fhade,  he 
muft  employ  lefs  of  the  Copperas  and 
vitriol,  in  proportion.  Experience  will 
foon  teach  him  the  proportion  of  rhefe,  to 
fix  on  the  fhadewhich  hedcfignsto  produce* 

There  are  other  methods  ufed,  to  ob:ain 
this  colour.  Some,  firft  run  the  cloth  in 
Fuftick  liquor  and  raife  the  luftre,  with  Ro- 
man vieriol ;  and^  then  darken  with  Copper- 
as i  all  which  is  done  in  .the  fame  pool  or 
dye.  This  v/ill  give*  a  gocd  colour  j  but 
it  is  hard  to  darken  and,  when  obtained,  it 
is  not  fo  bright,  nor  fo  durable  as  the  one 
firfl  mentioned. 

Seme  raife  the  colour  with  Alum;  but 
this  is-the  pooreft  method  of  any  that  is  em- 
ployed to  obtain  it.  The  Alum  leaves  the 
cloth  harlli  and  brittle  j  befide,  it  is  nearly 
impcfible  to  darken  the  colour. 

Dark  Olive  greeny  en  litien  and  cotton. 

Sometime?,  onFi:ftians,  this  colour  is  fafh- 
ionable.  Prepare  the  cloth  as  before  ;  for 
twenty  yards  of  waled,  or  twerty-five  of 
plain  cloth;  put  in  the  copper,  two  pounds 


ASSISTANT.  8S 

of  Roman  vitrio!  j  let  it  boil ;  then  dip  two, 
or  three  hours ;  keep  the  liquor  hot  while 
dipping.  Then  ccol  and  ritUe  clean;  niake 
a  new  pool,  with  ei.ht  pounds  of  Fuftick 
and  four  pounds  of  Logwood.  B  )il  them 
weh  together;  then  dip  andcool,  from  time 
to  time,  till  the  colour  nieet  your  fancy. 
Now  rinfc  and  drefs  as  for  other  Fiaflian. 


CHAP.      XXVIII. 
Blue  dye  for  Limn  and  Cotton. 

X  O  obtain  this  colour,  in  the 
cold  water  var,  the  dyer  fhould  have  two 
vat«,  each  one  containing  about  two  barrels. 
They  fhould  be  abou^  three  feet  high,  that 
the  fkeins,  when  hnr\^  in  the  va  ,  may  noc 
difturS  the  grounds  at  the  bo'tom. 

There  fhould  be  two  vat<;,  in  order  when 
one   is  weak,  th-^  yarn  may  in  the  other  be 
brought  up  tQ  a  full  colour  ;  and  alfo  when 
H 


$6  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

one  in   ftrergth  is  employed,  the  other  may 
be  repleniftied  with  dycftuff. 

To  raife,  or  fev  a  new  vat,  it  fhculd  be 
about  two  thirds  full  of  c'ean  water  j  it  (hou!d 
fland  in  the  fun  or  in  feme  warm  corner-ofa 
room.  Put  in  four  quarts  of  good  m.ilt  and 
as  much  wheat  bran  j  from  bochj  all  the 
flower  fhouUj  be  fifted. 

Siir  the  dye  once  or  twice  a  day,  for  four 
or  five  da^s.  Next  put  in  fix  pounds  of 
Potafii  defolved  in  warm  water,  and  one 
pound  of  good  Midderi  flir  the  dye  well. 
Take  two  pound  of  well  chofcn  Ldigo, 
grind  it  well  and  turn  it  in  after  ihe  fame 
manner  as  in  the  woollen  vat.  '"  again, 
that'the 'ingredients  nnay  be  •  nirc  .  Now 
it  may  "ftand,  exrc|.'i":n^  it  fl  uu'd  be  ft  r red 
-ORce  in  twelve  hours. 

If  the  weavher  be  w.-rnn,  pe'-haps,  the  dye 
will  begin  to  work  in  fo.ittei^,  or  twenty 
days.  "You  will  k-ow  whrn  thi^  takes  p  ace 
froai  the  liquor,  ivhich  ^'iU  givevou  a  dark 
green  appearanrr,  and  a  I'tde  froth  or  head 
will  rife;  on  the  furface  of  the  d)e. 


ASSISTANT.  »y 

Now  the  dye  (hould  be  plunged,  with  a 
rake,  once  a  day,  till  ic  is  in  a  proper  (late 
for  dying. 

If  the  dye  will  work',  in  five  or  fix  weeks, 
ic  will  do  well,  and  lafl  fcveral  years,  if  no 
diity  yarn,  or  greafy  goods  be  entered. 

When  the  dye  is  in  a  proper  ftatc  fpv  coU 
curing,  ic  will  appear  of  a  dark  green,  and  a 
deep  blue  froth  or  head,  will  continue  to 
float  on  the  top  of  the  liquor.  Without 
thefe  tokens,  it  will  not  colour. 

Wheii  the  dye  beconnes  weak,  replenifli 
it  with  Indigo,  Potafii  and  Madder,  in  the 
quantities  before  prefcribed. 

N.  B.  When  the  dye  is  replenifhed,  a 
quart  of  malt  and  as  much  wheat  bran  mufl: 
be  added  to  keep  it  alive.  The  dye  will  be 
fit  for  colouring  again  in  four  or  five  days. 

The  yarn,  in  order  for  dipping,  Ihould  be 
clean  fed  from  all  filih ;  the  fkeins  Ihould  be 
let  down  fingly,  with  a  (lick  run  througk 
them,  which  will  reA  on  the  top  of  the  vat. 

By  this  the  dyermay  (hift  the  yarn,  which 
muft  be  ftri6lly  attended,  in  order  that  the 
fkeins  may  equally  receive  the  colour. 


S8  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'» 

When  the  yarn  is  as  dark  as  you  wifh,  tak«- 
it  upi  wring,  rinfc  and  dry  it. 

Perhaps,  if  the  dye  be  father  weak,  the 
yarn  will  require  repeated  dippings. 

There  are  many  nnethod*,  by  which  blue 
is  obtained  on  cotton  and  linen  j  but  the  a- 
bove,  in  general,  rs  mod  approved. 

The  Second procefs  to  obtain  blue  on  Linen  and 
Cotton, 

The  dyer  may  take  barrels,  or  veflels  of  a 
larger,  or  fmaller  fize,  in  proportion  to  the 
goods,  which  he  expects  to  colour.  How- 
eyer,  vats  made  for  the  purpofe  arc  prefer- 
able. 

See  that  the  cafks  areperfe6Wy  clean. 

If  the  dye  be  fet  in  a  barrel  calk,  grind 
with  a  ball  one  pound  and  an  half  of  good 
Indigo  to  a  pafte;  while  grinding,  moiftcn 
it  with  fomelinne-waterand  a  folution  of  Pot- 
alh  which  vi'c  fhall  foon  notice. 

Defolve  three  pounds  of  Potafli,  in^  iron 
kettle  with  threequarts  of  water.  Steap  one 
pound  and  an  half  of  quick  lime  in  three  or 
four  quarts  of  hot  water,  and  when  it  is  well 


ASSISTANT.  g^ 

fettled,  turn  off  the  water  into  the  Potafli  j , 
then  pour  the  Indigo  into  this  compound  of 
Potafli  and  Time,  after  the  fame  manner  as 
is  prefcribed  for  the  woollen  blue  vat.  Let 
thefe  boil  together,  moderately,  till  the  In- 
digo rifes  to  the'  top  of  the  liquor  which 
may  be  known,  by  rapping  the  bottom  of 
the  kettle  with  a  fmall  flick  j  if  it  fcund 
hollow  the  d}e  is  fufncienily  united.  Now 
flack  as  much  more  lime  ;  add  fix  or  eight 
quarts  of  warm  water  and  three  pounds  of 
Copperas.  When  the  Copperas  is  well  de- 
folvtd,  turn  it  into  the  vat  or  cafk,  which  is 
to  bepreviouQy  about  hall  Hiled  with  warm 
Water  ;  then  [urn  ia  the  compound  of  Indi- 
go &c,  fiorn  the  kettle.  S:ir  the  whole  toj. 
getherj  then  wuh  warm  water  fi;l  che  vat, 
within  two  inches  of  the  top.  Afier  this, 
ftir  it  with  a  (lick,  three  or  four  times  in  a 
day  till  it  is  fit  for  ufe.  Perhaps  it  will  come 
to  maturity  in  incday  ;  however,  this  much 
depends  on  the  warmth,  or  coohiefs  of  the 
weather. 

The  yarn  in  this  vat,  is  to  be  wcWx'si  after 
the  fame  manner,  as   was  prefcribed  in  the 
H  2 


^o    .  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Other  dye.  When  in  the  dye,  the  yarn  ftiould 
appear  of  a  dark  gieen  j  and  when  expofcd 
to  the  air  change  to  a  blue. 

Thefc  vats  produce  a  large  head.,  or  blue 
froth  which  floats  on  the  top  of  the  liquor. 

This  dye  cannot  beieplenifheds  when  the 
flrcngth  is  exhauited,  it  mufl;  be  thrown  out. 
It  would  be  convenient  to  have  two  vats. 
If  one  dye  be  weak,  bej^in  to  colour  in  that, 
and  fi  .•fh  in  the  o;her,  which  fhouid  be 
ftroni£.  By  theie  accomirodations,  the  dy- 
er niiy  colour  when  he  pleafes.  This  is  an 
expeditious  way,  becaufe  the  dye  is  directly 
brought  to  work ;  and  it  produces  good  col- 
ours. But  the  firil  methoi  is  prefer.ble ; 
becaufc  by  timely  replenifhing  if,  you  i-iave 
a  conft^nt  dye. 

N.  B.  If  this  dye  become  fain%  you  rnuft 
rake  it,  and  let  it  fect'e,  befoie  you  dip 
again  ;  for  the  kdairxnts  wisl  injure  tho 
colour. 

Ihird  frocefs  to  ohtabi  hlu^,   on   Cotton  and 
Linen,  "juith  Lojwjod, 

Prepare  the  yarn  with  Roman  vitriol..  Fc:^ 


ASSISTANTi  ^f 

every  pound  of  yarn  ;  put  into  a  kettle  of 
water  c  so  ounces  of  the. vitriol  i  let  it  de- 
folvei  then  fprend  in  the  fkeins  of  yarn; 
let  them  boil,  for  two  hours  j  then  take  out 
and  rinfe.  Make  a  liquor  of  Logwood.  For 
every  pound  of  yarn,  employ  four  ounces  of 
Logwood,  well  chipped  and  boiled  in  a  ket- 
tle by  irfelf ;  then  turn  it  into  the  kettle, 
wheie  the  yarri  is  to  be  colouied,  after  taking 
out  all  the  chips.  The  yarn  may  boil  in  this 
liquor  and  je  dipped  half  an  hour.  This 
procefs  of  dipping  may  be  repeated,  two,  or 
three  times,  till  the  colour  rifes  to  year  fancy. 
Then  take  up,  rinfe  and  fcour  it,  in  a  weak 
fuds,  to  prevent  its  being  brittle. 

The  dye  prj,duces  a  bright  blue  5  but  it 
foon  languifhes.  Ic  will  anfver  if  it  be  not 
expofedtoihe  fun  and  air.  Being  a  cheap 
colour,  families  may  dye  this  blue,  and  for 
fome  ufes  it  may  be  f^rviceable,  to  them. 

N.  B.  For  every  pound  of  yarn,  make  tw9 
gallons  of  liquor. 


99  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'j 

CHAP.     XXIX. 
fo  d)t  thread  purple^  olive  hrcwn  and  Hack, 

X  URrLEj  for  one  pound  of 
thread,  boi'  five  ounces  of  Logwood,  in  an 
Jron  vefiel,  for  three,  or  four  hours.  After 
boil/ng,  add  two  ounces  of  Alum  to  the  liq- 
uor, after  it  is  defolved  put  in  the  thread  ; 
let  fimmertwocr  three  hours ;  then  take  up 
arid  fcour  it  in  a  weak  fuds. 

Olive  Bro'jon  i  for  one  pound  of  ihread, 
put  into  a  keit'c,  with  tw^  gallons  of  water, 
half  a  pound  of  Fuf^ickweli  chipped ;  boil  it 
three  or  four  hours  j  then  put  in  haT  an 
ounce  of  Reman  vitriol  and  one  ounce  of 
Copperas ;  let  them  delolve ;  then  introduce 
the  thread  J  let  it  flli-im^r,  one  hour;  then 
take  up.  If  it  be  not  dark  enough,  add  a 
little  Kiore  Copperas  to  the  dye  and  dip  a- 
gain. 

After  it  is  coloured  and  rinfed,  boil  the 
thread  in  water,  with  a  handful  of  wheat  bran 
to  render  it  fofc  and  pliable. 


ASSISTANT.  91 

Black  ;  for  one  pour<d  of  thread,  put  four 
quarts  of  yellow  oak  bark  into  t*/0  or  three 
gallons  ofwater.  Boil  it  three,  or  four  hours, 
then  take  out  the  bark,  and  add  to  the  liquor 
three  ounces  .of  Copperas  i  after  it  is  defulv*. 
ed  put  in  the  thread ;  let  it  fimmer  two 
hgurs ;  then  take  up  and  rinfe  it ;  then  .dl^p 
in  a  I'qMor,  madefrom  half  a  pound  of  log- 
wood, till  you  obtain  the  black. 


CHAP.  xxx:. 

To  dye  thread,  Red  and  Green, 

JEVED  ;  for  one  pound  put  four 
ounces  of  Alum  to  two  gallons  ofwater,  with 
a  handful  of  wheat  bran  ;  after  the  Alum  is 
defolved,  lay.in  the  thread,  loofly,  that  the 
colour  may  tak?  equally.  Let  the  dye  fim- 
mer over  the  fire,  for  eight  or  ten  hours. 
Now  take  up  the  thread ;  gently  prefs  it 
with  the  hands,  and  hang  it  in  the  fhade  to 
dry.     Make  a  new  liquor  j  the  fame  quanti* 


54  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

ty  of  water,  with  one  pound  of  the  bcft  M  id- 
der.  When  the  dye  is  fcaldir.g  hot,  put  in 
the  thread,  preferve  the  fame  degree  of  heat  j 
with  a  ftik,  frequently  ftir  the  thread,  tkat 
it  may  be  tqua'ly  coloured.  Perhaps  it  will 
take  a  day  to  obtain  the  colour  j  but  the 
time  will  be  in  proportion  to  the  (hade  de- 
fired. 

P.  S.  You  may  put  four  ounces  of  Nut- 
gall?,  well  pulycrixd,  to  the  Madder.  Then 
by  dipping  the  thread  in  a  yellow  dye,  eiiher 
before,  or  after  it  hii  received  the  Madder, 
vill  give  you  the  Orangej  and  by  havipg 
the  dye  ftrongj'dr  weak,  or  by  keeping  the 
thread  in  the  dye,  a  longer  or  fhorter  time, 
the  dyer  may  obram  any  fhade  he  choofes. 

When  the  thread  is  coloured,  rinfe  it 
thoroughly  j  then  fcald  it  in  water  with  a 
quart  «f  wheat  bran  ;  rinfe  again,  and  dry 
in  rhc  fhade  which  is  neceffary  for  all  colours 
on  thread. 

Green. 

Firft  dye  the  thread  blue;  after  it  is  rinfed, 
Alum  ifj  the  fame  as  for  redj  then  dip  in  a 


ASSiSTANt.  ^5 

yellow  dye.  This  rtiay  be  of  Fuftick,  Ter- 
rr.crech,  or  }eIlow  oak  bark;  this  colour 
ho-  ever  is  dull  and  heavy.  The  dyer  may 
govern  the  Ihides  and  make  them  dark,  or 
lig!i!:  a«  he  c'l  >ores  in  thefe  nvo  dyes. 

N.  B  The  dyer  will  make  it  a  (landing 
rule  to  ha  s  all  his  thread  of  fl:jx,  or  cotton, 
v-dl  clean  "d,  previous  to  dying.  That 
W'hi.h  is  mad  of  fl  x,  (hould  beboikd  in  a 
white  lye,  mad^  of  af?.es  and  water,  boiled 
together.  Cotton  mud  be  c}^^r(td^  by  a 
ftron^  foai'  fuds.  Wicho'.it  being  well  clean- 
fed,  thefe  ihreads  will  never  reg^lV'e  any  per- 
manent colour. 


CHAP.     XXXI. 

For  dying  Silk. 


HE  high  price  given  for  la* 
bo'Jr,  in  this  counti\,  ha«,  and  p'.'fh:ps  will 
for  many  ytirs,  p'-eveii  anv  extcnfi/e  culti- 
vation and  manufaclorJcs  of  fiik. 


^  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

Europe   and  Alia,  being   fall  of  people, 
who  muft  be  employed,  on   low  wages,  will, 
und.;ubtedly,  manufadure  the  principle  part 
of  the  fiiks,  that  may  be  ufedin  this  country, 
for  a  es  to  come. 

Old  griods,  with  a  fnfiall  quantity,  in  fkeins 
of  new  fik,  are  'he  moll  we  lliali  have  tJ  col- 
our at  prcfent.  Hence  it  will  be  necdlefg 
long  to  detain  you,  on  this  branch  cf  d^ing. 

Only  a  few  prelcriptions,  that  nnay  be  ufe- 
ful,  will  be  given. 

Si  k  fti-ffj-  nnay  be  coloured  in  t'TC  woollen 
dycsj  by  giving  then  the  ground-work,  be» 
for  ethc  vvoo.  en  cloth  h  put  in,.ai;d  by  dark- 
ening them  after  the  c'oth  is  coloured. 

Silk  requires  a  Itronger  d.e  than  wool. 
It  is  the  better  way  to  m.ke  a  dye,  by  itle'f, 
for  fik.  It  fliould  be  llrained  throu^^h  a 
fine  fieve;  for  fhips  ^^arks,  Sec.  aiII  be  very 
injurious  to  thr  fik,  efj  ecially  to  flceins,  from 
^hich  it  is  aimed impoffible  to  iVparate  them. 

Dyes  made  of  i  npalpaUe  powders  nred 
not  to  be  drained  j  they  will  rinfc  off  in  the 
ftreanis. 


ASSISTANT,  Of 

Black  on  Silk. 

For  one  pound  of  filk,  take  four  quarts 
of  yellow  cak  bark  j  Loll  It  well  for  three 
hours.  There  fhouTd  be  two  gallons  of 
liquor  after  the  d_,e  is  drained  j  to  this  de- 
coftion,  add  two  ounces  of  Nutgalis  well 
pounded,  and  four  of  Copperas.  Let  th<=m 
boil  half  aa  hour  ;  then  check,  v/ith  a  pint 
of  cold  water.  Put  in  the  filk,  and  keep  the 
dye  about  one  degree  below  boiling  heat ; 
flir  the  fi;k  in  the  dye,  for  five,  or  fix  hoursj 
that  it  may  equally  imbibe  the  colour ;  thsn 
take  up,  cool,  rinfc  and  dry  it  in  the  fiiade. 
The  filk  will  then  prefent  you  the  colour  of 
the  dard  olive.  For  the  next  procefs,  nnake 
a  decodionof  a  pound  of  good  Logwood,  and. 
dip  the  fiik  until  it  receives  the  colour  you 
defire.  The  fliadc  the  dyer  may  afcertain,  hy 
drying  a  corner,  or  a  few  threads,  afcer  th« 
colour  is  received.  Now  rinfe,  wring  but 
moderately,  dry  in  the  (bade.  Of  whatever 
colour,  fi)ks  muft  never  be  dryed  in  {he  fun. 

After  all  thefe,  dip,  onct-  more,  in  a  folu- 
tion  of  loaf  fugar,  v/ith  two  quans  of  watcr^ 


9»  THE  COUNTRY  DVER'a 

brought  halfway  to  boiling  heat ;  thefl  dry, 
and  the  filk  will  prcfent  you  a  Ihining  jet 
black,  whofe  .clour  is  durable. 

Cirtnamon. 

For  one  pound  of  filk,  boil  half  a  pound 
of  Camwood,  that  is  grount',  with  two  gal- 
lons of  wa'cr,  tbr  fifteen  minutes,  in  a  br.fs, 
or  pewter  velfe',  then  dip,  and  carefully  at- 
tend, that  the  fiik  may  e<jui:  ly  receive  chc 
colour.  Con:inue  till  you  obtain  the  col- 
our defi'ed.  Cinnamon  will  anfwerf;r  few- 
ing  fcarlet  c'oth,  Aficr  the  Cinnamon  is 
obtii  ed,  )0u  nriay  prodacc  a  nuni:  er  of 
fliades,  by  adding  Copperas,  in  fmali  quan- 
tities and  dipp  ng  a  number  of  times. 

Sax'.n   blue. 

For  one  pound  of  filk,  to  eight  quarts  of 
boi'ing  warer,  add  about  half  a  tabie-ipoon- 
ful  of  ihc  COT  pound  oil  urd  Indiijo.  Srir 
them  ve'il  ;  dip  thf;:  fi  k  ^ul  keep  it  mcving 
for  a  fe.v  ir.inu'es ;  take  up,  and  if  it  be  not 
fuiEcient'y  coloured;  add  a  little  more  ol  the 


ASSISTANT.  59 

compound,  and  thus  proceed  till  the  colour 
rifes  to  your  dtfign. 

Green. 

To  two  gallons  of  boiling  water,  add  two 
ounces  of  pulveri fed  Termerech,  boil  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  four  ounces  of  Alum  ;  af- 
ter it  is  deiblvcd;  add  half  a  tablc-fpoonful  of 
the  compound,  oil  and  Indigo.  Mix  all 
well  together  j  then  dip  for  fifteen  minutes  ; 
take  up  and  cool,  and  fo  proceed  till  the  col- 
our is  obtained.  If  it  need  more  yellow  add 
Termerech  ;  if  more  blue  encreafc  the  pro- 
portion of  ihe  compound. 

In  all  colours  upon  filk,  for  one  pound  of 
goods  two  gallons  of  liquor  are  required.  But 
the  quantity  of  dyetlufF  employed  in  colour- 
ing greens,  will  ever  require  the  difcrcLicn  of 
the  dyer.  By  different  proportions  of  ihe 
Termerech  and  compound,  various  fhades 
may  be  obtained.  But  without  Termerech, 
no  good,  nor  handfome  green  can  be  obtain- 
ed on  filk. 


iO»  THE  COUNTRY  DYER** 

Olive  hrown. 

Boil  Fuftick,  yellow  oak,  or  walnut  bark  ; 
after  the  liquor  has  received  the  fliength  of 
the  dyeO-ufF,  ftraln  it.  Bring  it  to  boil ;  then 
dip  the  filk  frooi  time  to  time,  adding  a  little 
Koman  vitriol  and  Copperas.  For  a  light 
colour  give  fhort  dips.  A  variety  of  Ihades 
may  be  obtained  in  this  dye. 

Light  browns. 

To  eight  quarts  of  water,  put  four  ounces 
of  Nutgalls  well  pulverifcd,  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes and  add  a  piece  of  Alunn,  the  fize  of  a 
walnut,  let  it  dtfolve;  then  dip  the  filk  fif- 
teen minutes  j  take  up  and  cool  j  add  a  little 
Copperas,  then  dip  as  before  j  thus  proceed 
vntiil  you  obtain  the  colour  dcfired. 

Violet  and  Orange. 

For  one  pound  of  filk,  put  four  ounces  of 
Alum  to  eight  quarts  of  water.  Let  them 
almoft  boil ;  then  carefully  dip  for  one  hour. 
Take  up  and  linle  it  clean. 


ASSISTANT.  wtti 

Make  a  new  dye,  with  one  pound  of  Bra*- 
zil,  or  Redwood  j  boil  it  half  a  day  ;  after  ic 
is  well  ft  rained  from  the  chips,  ihere  (hould 
be  two  gallons  of  liquor  j  bring  it  almoft  to 
boil  arddipthe  filk.  That  which  you  de- 
fign  to  he  light,  dip  but  a  fhort  time;  that 
for  a  full  colour,  will  require  a  longer  time. 
Stir  the  filk  brifidy,  while  in  the  dye,  that 
the  colour  may  be  equally  received. 

Novv,  for  violets,  make  a  new  dye,  with 
ha'f  a  pound  of  Logwood.  After  it  is  well 
boJed,  flrained  and  cooled, dip  thefilkin  the 
liquor.  If  you  dip  filk  in  a  6t:c,^\on  of 
Logwood  when  it  is  hot,  or  even  warm,  jou 
can  never  obiatn  abright  colourexcept  blacks. 
In  the  laft  place,  dip  the  filk,  in  a  very  vvejic 
lolution  of  Pearlafli  j  this  liquor  iliould  bg 
hot,  as  it  will  brigluen  the  colour.  Rin* 
well  and  dry. 

Orange  -,  after  the  (i'k  has   received  the 
Redwood  dye,  make  one,  with  two  ounces  of 
pulverifed  Termerech.     Boila{e\v  mir.ure?, 
then  dip  th2  filk,  longer  orfliorter,  according 
to  the  fhade,  you  wifli  to  prodijcc. 

•^  l2 


a»»  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Many  other  methods  arc  ufed  to  obtain 
thefe  colours,  but  the  above  is  fufficient  to 
produce  all  the  variety  of  fhadcs  that  maybe 
de  fired. 

Tellow* 

Though  a  number  of  different  dyefluffs 
will  produce  it,  we  (hall  mention  Termcrcch 
only.  This,  however,  foon  fades ;  but  it 
gives  a  bright  and  beautiful  colour,  and,  for 
it: any  ufcs,  anfwcrs  a  good  purpofc. 

Firft  give  to  the  filk  the  Alum,  as  for 
violets  i  then  dip  in  aliquor  of  Tcrmerech. 
The  quantity  of  dyeftuff,  will  be  in  propor- 
tion to  the  fliades  required.  The  dyer,  by 
adding  and  dipping,  may  obtain  all  the  va- 
riety of  tints  that  exift  bctv.een  the  ftrawcol- 
^r  and  the  full  yellow. 

Navy  blue, 

Firft-,  dip  an  hour,  one  pound  of  filk,  in  a 
folution  of  four  ounces  of  Copperar,  to  two 
gallons  of  water.  While  dipping  have  the 
liquor  hot.  Then  rinfeand  dip  in  a  decoc- 
tion of  Lo3;v,'cod  untill  the  colour  is  obtained. 


ASSISTANT.  103 

To  fofun  itaier  that  is  hard,  or  impregnated 
with  Minerals. 

Enclofe  a  pint  of  wheat  brcn,  in  a  linen 
bag  tyed  clofcly,  put  it  into  ten  or  twelve 
gallons  of  water ;  let  it  boil,  and  take  off  the 
fcum,  as  it  rifes.  Any  water  that  is  clean, 
may  by  this  nacthod  be  made  fufficiently  fofc 
for  colouring,  or  to  wafh  linen  cloth. 

The  hard,  or  rough  water,   which  fome 
wells  produce,  niay  be  rendered  foft,  by  ob»- 
ferving  this  prefcription. 


CHAP.    XXXII.    . 
D ire ^ tens  topreferve  d^ijiiiff  from  injury , 

If  this  be  neglcded,  fome  kinds, 
will  loofc  all  their  valuable  qualities  ;  others 
will  receive  fo  nnuch  filth  and  dirt,  as  to  ren- 
der them  nearly  ufelefs. 

Woods,  of  all  kinds,  in  the  (lick,  Ihould 
be  kept  in  a  celkr,  raifed  from  the  ground 
and  fo  covered  that  the  dirt,  or  dufl  may  not 


104  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

adhere.     All   that  are    ground,    and  put  in 
c^CaSj  fhou'd  be  preferved  from  the  air. 
'   Indigo  iliould  be  [)rererved  in  a  celler,  and 
fecured  ffomdirt.     Cochineal,     ?.n  all  other 
drugF,  for  dying,   fVobld  be  confined   from 
the  air  and  from  any  kind  of  dirt   or  filth  ; 
more  efpecially,  when  they   ere    pulverifed,. 
It  will  be,  tcth  covenient  and   eccncnnical. 
for  dyers,  to   have    a  nurober  of  boxes,  or 
draw:,  in    vhich  ihey   may   preferve   fnnall 
qur.ntitiesof  dyeftuffi  and  falts. 

Copperas  is  volatile  ;   of  confcquence,  it 
fhould  be  kept  clofe  from  the  air^ 


CH  A    P.      XXXIIL 

Rsmarhs  on  millingy  or  fulling  cloths . 


ILLING  cloth  is  a  branch 
of  the  clothiers  bufinefs.  S  Jme  inftruftior.s, 
on  this  branchy  may  be  necefTary  j  fince,  in 
this  coanfry,  dying  anddreffing  of  cloths  ar3 
performed  br/  thefanne  workman. 


ASSISTANT.  i©l 

To  full  cloth,  the  mill  muft  be  fo  con- 
ftrudted,  as  to  keep  it  in  the  a6tion  of  turning. 
The  mills  firft  conftrudled  in  this  country, 
were  deftitute  of  this  neceflary  quality. 
The  workman  was  obliged  to  Hop  them 
freqncntiy,  to  fhift,  or  turn  his  cloth. 

Of  the  mills  now  employed,  thofe  with 
cranks  arc  much  preferable  to  any  other. 
One  third  part  of  the  water  employed,  in 
thofe  which  move  with  oval  blocks,  will  give 
a  fufficient  action  to  the  crank  mil}.  How* 
ever,  either  will  anfwer  the  purpofe,  provid- 
ed it  will  turn  the  cloth,  which  is  abfolutely 
neceflary. 

Ail  cloths  defigned  to  be  handfomely^ 
dreffed,  fhould  have  the  nubs  cut  off  before 
they  enter  the  mill.  Alfo  the  cloth  before 
it  is  put  in  the  nuil),  mufl  be  wet,  with  foap- 
fuds,  of  fufficient  ftrength,  to  raife,  or  ftart 
the  greafe  diredly.  It  (liould  be  fo  moift, 
that  the  workman,  with  his  thumb  and  fin- 
ger, can  wring  a  corner  of  it  fo  that  the  foap 
and  greafe  will  rife,  appear  thi:k  and  dirty, 
and  feel  flippery. 


ie6  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'i 

Put  in  a  fufficient  qusn  ity  of  cloth,  to 
have  it  turn  weW  in  the  mi').  Be  caicful  to 
fhifr  the  doth,  th^t  is,  take  i:  out  before  it 
adheres,  cr  n;rovs  together.  Siretrh  it  over 
a  pin  made  for  that  ufe.  As  you  fold  ihc 
cloth  over  the  pin,  keep  the  edges  and  other 
parts  of  the  cloth  from  doubling  ;  Ifft  rhey 
fhould become  ccnneded  by  fulling.  Then 
put  it  again,  in  the  mill,  and  thus  proceed, 
until  the  cloth  is  half  milled;  then  fcour  it, 
that  the  threads  may  clofe  in  the  fccqnd  mill- 
ing, to  render  the  cloth  fir  n. 

A  weak  fuds  will  anfvier  for  the  fecond 
miring.  The  cloth  will  not  be  fo  apt  to 
'adhere,  ^hen  fo  near  i.5  thicknefs.  Ic  may 
now  run  in  the  mill  much  longer.  Howev- 
er, the  workman  muO:  attend,  left  it  become 
thicker  than  he  choofes, 

Afrer  the  cloth  is  properly  fulled,  fcour 
it  clean,  in  order  for  dying  and  drefling. 

Some  nap  before  dying,  v»hich  is  a  good 
method  for  Ibrne  co-ours ;  but  not  for  light 
ones  J  thefe  may  be  accideiually  fpoited  and 
if  this  be  the  cafe,  the  cloihier  rua)  take 
which  fide  he  choofes  for  the  face. 


ASSISTANT. 


107 


Some  clothiers  full  thtir  c!o  h-S  in  lies, 
becaufethis  m<?ihod  is  cheaper  than  foap. 

This  is  a  pern  i  iousvvay  ofcloihg  bufinefsi; . 
the  cloh  will  be  rt  ugh,  br  ittle  an  dwill  not 
pcrforiii  h;?lf  the  fervice,  as  irfuiled  in  foap. 
Though 'lie  will  l^art  the  greafe,  vet  every 
wOikman  011^ he  to  be  prore.uttd  for  fraud, 
who  fulls  his  cloth  in  lies,  fie  cn'y  fa-res 
to  himfelf  a  fe^v  centc,  while  he  robs  his  cuf- 
comers  of  many  dol'ars. 

So  ne  leave  grea'e  in  cloths,  after  they  are 
millej;  this  is  a  piejecf  infufferable  deceit 
and  Q^vennefs.  When  in  tbt  coid  air,  fuch 
clo-hs  will  appear  to  be  ihick  and  firm,  whea 
warm,  they  will  be  flimfy  and  etTUt  i  fetid 
nafly  f nell.  To  prefs  cloth,  from  vihich 
the  greafe  is  not  thoronghly  cleansed,  will 
irjure  the  papers,  which  will  tarniili  the  col- 
our of  other  c!oth=;. 

Af  er  thetcloth  is  milled  and  dvedfor 
dreflTiing,  ii  HuTu^d  be  well  napped,  with  j-^cks. 
Cloths  dcfr^ned for  h^rdicrne  drefiing,  llvculd 
be  plyed  with  jack^  until  ,1  .iix  f.hi  k  np 
rifes.  Tb'.)''^o  Tf  r  cpmuion  UiC,  vvili  not  re- 
quire lo  ;riu^h  Ubour. 


loS  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Lambikins  muft  be  napptd,  on  both  fides, 
and  not  milled  fo  thick  &s  for  fhearing.  In 
like  manner  baizes,  as  they  are  defigned  to  be 
both  light  and  warm,  fhould  have  but  alight 
nnilling  and  napped  on  both  fides.  Bear- 
Ikins  fhould  be  napped  on  both  fides  and 
fulled  thicker  than  common  cloths,  as  they 
are  dcfigncd  for  winter  gar;nenis. 

Beaver  coating,  fhould  be  fulled  clofely, 
napped  and  ihorne  once  even  ;  then  it  fhould 
be  teafeled,  and  left  with  a  fhort,  fine  nap. 
This  is  to  be  dreffed,  only  on  one  fide. 

•The  reafon  why  Laaibflcins,  Bearfkins 
and  Baize  fhould  be  napped  on  both  fides,  is 
becaufe  they  will  be  much  warmer  ;  befide, 
inucb,  by  this  method  may  be  favcd,  in  cut- 
ting garments,  for  which  they  are  defigned. 

N,  B.  Workmen  fhould  be  very  careful 
of  cloths,  while  in  the  greafe  and  foap.  In 
thefe  cloths,  packed  and  la.d  afide,  too  lorg, 
will  become  fo  warm  as  to  ruin  them.  Cloth 
thus  packed,  even  in  co'd  weather,  will  fone- 
tifF.es  becom.e  hot  in  fix  cr  ei^^ht  hours. 

Look  to  it.  frequently  ;  for  fometimes  it 
U  neceffary  to  have  it  in  a  pack,  or  heap,  'lA 


ASSISTANT.  1C9 

cold  wcither,  and  covered    with  dry  cloths 
toprefcrve  it  from  freezing. 

After  it  is  fcoured  clean,  fronn  the  foap 
and  greafe,  the  froft  will  not  injure  ir.  How- 
ever, it  is  the  better  way  to  dry  it  fo  foon  as 
may  be  convenient  5  fold  up  and  lay  it  by 
till  needed. 

After  cloth  is  well  milled,  dyed  and  nap- 
ped, you  muft  tenter,  or  (Vrain  it  on  the 
r«ck,  which  is  made  for  the  ufe,  called  tent- 
er bars.  The  hooks  in  thefe  bars  lliould 
be  fet  bv  a  line,  at  two  inches  diftance  from 
each  oiher  j  fo  that  the  edges  of  the  cloth 
may  be  ttraigh"-,  when  c^r^ed,  and  it  alfd 
will  drefs  an  1  appear  much  better. 

Cloth  fhould  be  drained  on  the  rack,  to 
take  out  all  wrinkles  and  give  an  even  width, 
when  dryed. 

Wiien  the  cloth  is  properly  tentered,  be- 
ing wet,  the  nap  fhould  be  laid  with  a  jick, 
or  brufh.  j  cks  will  anfwer  fome  colours; 
in  others  a  clean  brufh  is  preferable.  Jacks 
fhould  be  preferved  from  mil  j  adi'ty,  of 
Tuft;  jiick  will  injure  any  colour  j  thofe  ihat 
are  light  it  will  entirely  ruin. 
K 


uo  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

CHAP.     XXXIV. 
OfJiDejr'wg  Cloths. 

When  the  cloth  is  drawn 
over  the  fhear-board,  begin  at  that  end  to- 
wards whch  the  n:p  is  incli:.td.  The 
{hears  oUj.ht  lo  move  li_^ht^y  and  free'\j  to 
cut  clean. 

Tnere  fliou'd  be  no  ridges  left  on  the  cloth 
after  (hearing.  Some  clo  hs  will  require  ii  ore 
fliearino  than  ethers,  to  nuke  ihtm  appear 
handfome.  AfLcr  c'oths  have  been  fhorre 
on:e,  thofe  dtfigned  to  be  nca  ly.  dreff^d, 
fhould  t:e  well  napped  wiih  Teafe's.  Son  e 
voik  nen  nap  when  the  do  h  is  dry  ;  cih- 
ers  when  it  is  wet.  Eiiher  wa)-  wi  1  arTwer. 
However  to  nap  with  Teafc-!s,  v.-hen  the  cloth 
is  diy  is  attended  with  Icfs  trou'^le  Jf  it  be 
well  jUined  after  {hearing,  it  vi;l  leave  a 
lliff  nspi  that  i=,  ir  will  be  fof  to  th  hand, 
wji  n  it  is  drawed  wi.h  the  nap,  and  \vill_ 
feci  rou^'h  V  hen  drawn  in  oppoHtion  to  it. 
Wnen  cloth  is  thus  dielTed,  it  will  jippear. 


ASSISTANT,  m 

and  wear   handfome.     If  cloth  be  well  nap- 
ped, it  will  generally  need  to  be  fheared  five^ 
or  fix  tim^s  ;  perhaps  iiiore.     However,  ex«i 
perience  is  the  bed  irdrudor  on  this   poinf. 

When  cloth  is  welldrefled,  thg  ^read  will 
not  be  dilcovered  on  the  face,  though  it  be 
fhorne  a  number  of  times. 

Thofe  cloths  that  are  not  napped  with  Tea- 
fels,  it  will  be  fuitible  after  each  time  of 
{hearing,  except  the  laft,  to  lay  the  nap  well, 
with  a  ji'k.  Cloths  in  this. manner,  may 
be  drefled  fo  as  to  appear  decently.  After 
{hearing,  plain  well  j  this  will  leave  the  cloth 
fieek  and  fmooth. 

For  nice  cloths,  it  may  be  well  tb  (hear 
the  back  once,  without  napping, 

N.  B.  Large  nubs  fhould  never  be  dra  vn  . 
out  with  Tweazets,  but  cut  off  with  fmall 
fliears. 


\«  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'4 


CHAP.      XXXV. 

ObXervatiom  onfreffittg  dotbs, 

JL  H£  plate  of  the  prefs  ftiould 
be  two  inches  and  an  half  thick.  The  up- 
per fide  fnnooth.  When  ready  for  ufe, 
fpread  on  it  a  little  fine  fand  ;^  then  draw 
over  it  the  ftraight  edge  of  a  board,  to  rerder 
it  level.  Next,  lay  on  about  twenty  preff- 
papers,  as  a  fence  to  preferve  the  cloth  from 
the  plate,  while  prefifmg. 

The  plate  Ihould  be  equally  brought  to 
fuch  a  heat  as  may  gently  repel  water,  when 
it  is  throA'n  upon  it. 

The  cloth  being  papered  for  prefling,  is  to 
be  put  upon  the  plate,  and  for  the  firft  prefF- 
ing  fcrewed  moderately  i  fo  that  the  laft 
preffing  may  Jtake  out  the  fcuttles,  or  feams 
caufed  on  the  edge  of  the  papers,  by  the 
folds.  Thick  cloths  {hould  not  be  kept  too 
hot  in  the  prefs,  left  they  be  ftiff  and  hard^ 


ASSISTANT.  iV'S 

like  buckram ;   they  fnould  coir.e  from  the- 
prefs  foft  and  pliable. 

Gloths  are  ibmsti  r,es  fo  ftiffe.nd  by  the 
heat  of  the  prefs,  as  toeflenially  irjure  ihem. 
By  fuch  a  dry  hear,  to  render  cloth  ohfti- 
nate  like  parchxenr,  all  muft  allows,  will  in- 
jure it. 

Thin  cloths  require  more  H«at  and  a  clbfer 
prefsv-SoTie  ft' (Fen  with  gums,  before  preflT- 
ingj  others  employ  water,  while  papering 
for  preiFing.  It  is  the  beft  way  to  take  up 
two  of  the  fence  pipers,  and  fprinkle  the 
pla'c  wiih  water  ;  then  lay  them  back  ;  in- 
troduce the  cloth  and  give  it  a  clofe  pre  fling. 
The  water  will  find  a  courfe  through  the 
eloth. 

Thin   cloth  iliould  not  be  turned  in  the 
prefs.     Hovever,  Irng  pieces  may  require 
it.     The  plate  fiiuuld  not  be  fprini  led,  v/n^n.' . 
the  cJcth  is  turned  ;  for  ihit  would  take  ou^ 
the  prefling,  which  the  cloth  has  rcctived. 

Let  thin  cloth  lye  on  the ^  late  over  nlghr, 
or  till  the  prefs  is  cool. 

A  col  J  prefs  is  very  convenient  j  after  the 
cloth  has  lain  overnight  in  the  other,  it  msy* 
K-  2 


114  THE  COUNTRY  DYER^s 

be  fhifted  to  r.his  in  the  morning;  hence  the 
workman  may  prcfs  every  day,  if  he  choofe. 
"When  tffcre  is  but  one  prefs  he  cannoc  finifh 
a  pack  of  cloth,  in  lefs  than  two  days. 

After  all,  experience  is  neceffary  and  no 
pcrfon  can  drefs  cloths  well,  until  he  has 
fers^ed  a  regular  apprenticefhip. 


•nam 


CHAP.    XXXVI. 

Of  for  ting  "wooly  for  doth. 

In  this  country,  women  fort  the 
wool.  A  fuitable  attention  to  the  bufinefs 
has  been  too  generally  r.eglcfled.  In  the 
European  fadories  of  woollen,  the  workmen 
divide  the  fleece  into  fix  or  feven  forts  or 
>'  arcels,  from  the  fine,  down  to  the  coarfe. 

Tne  bell  wool  grows  from  the   kidneys, 
over  the  flioulders ,  to  the  neck  of  the  flieep. 
This  fhould  be  employed  for  the  fined  cloth. 
The  remainder  Hiould  be  divided  for  the  ufe- 
to  which  the  forter  defmns  it. 


ASSISTANT,  115 

Coarfe  wool  fhould  be  wrought  into  blanks 
ets.  By  thus  afforting  wool  there  will  be 
no  wafte;  but  by  mixing  fine  and  coarfe 
wool,  in  the  fame  piece,  t'.ie  cloth  will  never 
appear  well  after  drefling,  nor  do  the  fervice 
it  would  have  performed,  had  the  wool  been 
well  for  ted. . 

AH  the  coarfe  ends  fhould  be  cut  offend 
caft  away.  If  they  be  fpun  and  woven  in- 
to cloth,  the  colour  you  imprefsupon  it  will 
be  neither  clear  nor  even  5  for  coarfe  and 
fine  wool,  will  not  equally  receive  any  colour. 

After  w%ol  is  forred,  it  Ihould  be  careful« 
ly  pulled  apart  and  have  all  the  nubs  and 
motes  taken  out.  Then  put  it  into  a  bafkef,  . 
or  f3me  clean  place,  where  no  dirt  or  lint 
czn  reach  it  j  for  thefe  are  very  injurious  to 
wool. 

After  the  wool  is  well  picked,  greafe  it 
with  hogs-lard,  or  foft  fat.  Put  one  pound 
of  greafe  to  feven  of  wool  j  mix  them  well 
until  the  wool  is  foft  and  pliable.  After  it 
has  received  the  greafe,  it  fhould  be  broken 
with  good  cards  and  laid  in  bats,  until  all 
th«  wool    is  broken,  which   is  defigned  for 


iifi  THE  COUNfRY  DYEK** 

one  piece  of  cloth.  Then  lay  the  ba' sin  a 
pile;  put  a  board  on  them,  and  preffing  on 
ihe  beard,  with  he  hird,  or  kr.ee,  gradually 
draw  out  the  bats  v\iih  the  hand,, until  ihe/ 
are  all  drcwn  from  ur.der  the  board.  Being 
thus  feparated,  by  a  fccond  picking,  the  bats 
v^iil  be  well  m'xed.  Now  divide  the  wool 
into  two  equal  parcels, ce  for  the  chain,  or 
warp,  the  other  for  the  woaf,  ot  failing. 

Now  let  one  perfon   fpin  the  woo^    that 
the  yarn  may  be  equally  wrought.     The  fil- 
ling fhould  be  fpun  viththc  wheel  crofs  bandi- 
ed.    Give  the  warp  no  nfioretwj**,  than  v^ill 
weave  without  fretting.     The  woaf  thould 
be  twiftcd  nearly  as  hard  as  the  ^varp. 

After  the  yarn  is  well  cleanfed,  prepare  ic 
for  the  loom.  The  weaver  fl^iould  (ley  the 
piece  as  high,  as  it  will  be  ir  to  fpring  freely 
in  the  loom.  Employ  as  mu.hfl  'inj,  as  ran 
be  conveniently  itit;oduced.  Beat  clofel>  as 
you  weave.  Avoid  old  harnefs ;.  becaufe  ic 
greatly  injures  the  cloihi  Leave  a  good  fel-- 
vage  and  trim  carefully  as  you  weave. 

When  cloth  is  made  iaconformity  to  ihtfe 
dire^Uoinr,. there  is  no  danger  of  irs  working. 


ASSISTANT  itj 

badly  in  the  mill ;  it  v  ill  not  cockle  j  but 
drefs  neatly. 

If  a  nurnber  of  hands  be  employed  in  fpin- 
ing  a  piece,  you  may  generally  expedt  that 
the  cloth  will  cockle  in  the  mill  j  and  fuch 
cloth  can  never  be  dreffed,  to  appear,  de- 
cently. 

Some  people  proceeding  in  this  manner 
with  their  wool,  complain  of  the  clothier  bo* 
caufe  their  cloth  docs  not  anfwer  their  expeft- 
ation;  and  after  fufficient  reafons  have  beea 
given  for  the  failure,  as  have  juft  been  men- 
tioned, they  ftill  determine  to  be  ignorant,. 
*'in  fpight  of  experience."  The  truth  lies 
here;  if  wool  be  not  properly  forted,  and 
fuitably  manufa6tured  by  the  cards,  wheel, 
and  loom  ;  it  is  impoflibl«  f6r  the  clothier 
to  drefs  it  even  decently. 

All  cloths,  that  are  not  to  be  milled,  (hould 
be  well  mixed  in  the  wool,  before  fpinning; 
for  wool,  in  confequence  of  the  reafons  be- 
fore fuggefted,  will  not  equally  receive  the 
colour  ;  the  cloth  will  be  ftriped,  if  not  well 
mixed  in  the  wool. 


ii8  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Famiiies  may  manufacture  ihe  r  own  Ker- 
feynnires  neatly,  by  making  a  good  choice  of 
their  wool.  'Ihe  fineft  is  i-eceflTary  for  ihofc 
cloihs.  The  yarn  fhouM  be  fpun  about 
eighty  kr.ots  t)  ihe  pound.  This,  and  all 
Other  yarn  fhou  d  be  even.  If  it  be  unequa!, 
fome  placts  being  lar^^e  and  others  rma;l,  ao 
cloth  mace  of  iuch  yarn  will  appear,  even 
decertly. 

Kerfeymire  fhould  be  fleyed  with  three 
threads  m  a  reed,  ard  fprung  with  fourtread- 
cls,  one  half  at  a  fpring.  It  muft  be  equal- 
ly wa'cd  on  both  fides. 

Next,  it  mufl  be  fulled  lighdy,  and  well 
drefTed.  The  finer  the  yarn,  the  neater  the 
clo;h.  I  have  dreflVd  cloth,  the  yarn  of 
which  was  fpun  one  hundred  and  ten  knots 
from  the  pound;  hovever,  we  feldom  have 
wool  that  will  admit  of  running  lo  fmall. 

It  is  the  belter  way,  never  to  draw  a 
thread  from  wool,  Imaller  than  it  will  have 
Arcngth  to  fup;-ort  when  under  the  a6lion  of 
the  loam.  Weol  wouldrun  finer  and  Imooth- 
er,  if  our  farmers  would  be  more  attentive  to 
their  fteep.     They  fhould  never  be  yarded 


ASSISTANT.  119 

with  cattle  ;  they  (hould  be  fed  in  a  rack, 
fo  conftruaed,  that  the  feed  and  chafF  from 
the  hay  may  not  fall  into  the  v\ool.  Thefe 
cflentially  injure  it. 

Sheep  ftiouid  be\ept  in  good  fl.fli,  that 
the  wool  mav  be  lively.  Af  er  the  fhecp  are 
wafhed  they  fhould  notbe  fh  )r  e,  In  lefs  than 
fix  or  fevendays.  Thc-reafon,  why  you  fhould 
wait  fo  long  afier  wafhi.g,  is  that  the  a  - 
irr.al  oil  mav  penet  atethe  pocrs  of  the  wool. 
This  oil  prtTerves  the  wool  alive  and  ktfcps 
it  foft  and  pliable 

Af^ter  the  vool  h  taken  off,  it  fhould  be 
liid  in  fore  drv,  clean  place.  Wnen  it  is 
drv,  (lore  and  preferve  it  from  all  dull  and 
ti:h. 

If  Farmers  would  obferve  tnefedirei^lions, 
they  wou  d  ro:^n  find  their  axount  for  their 
extra  trouble 

Never  di'pofe  of  your  heft  laibs  ;  but 
preferve  them  for  cheir  good  wool. 


z2«  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'« 

CHAP.     XXXVII. 

fc  know  when  the  cloth  is  well  drejfei. 

W  HEN  cloth  has  received  a 
good  drefTing,  and  is  finifh^d  in  a  fuitable 
manner,  it  will  be  fofc  and  firm.  Bciag- 
fliorne  even,  it  will  prefent  you  a  fhort,  thick 
nap,  which  lies  fmooth,  in  one  reguiar  direc- 
tion, "^y  drawing  your  hand,  with  the  in- 
clinations of  the  nap,  it  will  feel  fleek  and 
fmooth  ;  to  move  it  in  oppofidon,  the  nap 
will  feel  rough  and  prickley. 

If  the  cloth  will  bear  this  infpeflion,  you 
may  conclude  that  the  workman  h-as  done 
his  duty.  1  he  workmanihip  on  cloth,  that 
is  defigncd  f  )r  h^mdrome  drtfTiig,  may  be 
difcovcrcd  by  the  eye.  If  it  be  prelFed 
ftifF,  ii<e  buckram  ;  if  the  nap  be  irregular, 
ard  the  face  of  the  clo  h  be  rough,  the 
workman  has  not  perft  rmed  hit  duty,  but  he 
ha^  endeavored  to  hiue  his  failure,  by  ^hc 
pref.  The  pels,  on  thick  cloih,  is  of  ro 
innportance,     Cioth  (hould  be  fo  dieffed  as 


ASSISTANT.  Ill 

to  wear,  as  neatly  without,  as  with  prcfTing. 
The  only  rcafon,  why  thick  clpths  are  put  in 
the  prefs  is  to  give  a  light  glofs  and  to  make 
them  appear  a  little  more  compa6t  and  fin- 
iflicd. 

Howevtr,  if  thie  cloth  have  not  been  reg- 
ularly manufadurcd,  before  it  is  prefented 
to  the  clothier,  it  will  lay  beyond  his  power 
to  dreis  it  neatly .  Whoever  will  infpcft  ht« 
cloih,  in  conformity,  to  the  foregoing  direc- 
tions, may  eafily  know,  whether  the  clothier 
^have  performed,  or  neglefled  his  duty. 

Did  the  people  of  this  country,  thus  infpe£b 
their  cloth  ;  unfaithful,  and  ignorant  cloth- 
iers  would  not  be  employed  ;  while  the  well 
informed  and  faithful  workman  would  be  en* 
abled  to  do  bufinefs  upon  a  more  extenfive 
fcale  than  any  have  yet  attempted  in  Amer- 
ica. 

If  cloths  were  manuFa6iured  and  drefled  (o 
well,  as  our  wool  will  admit,  gentlemen,  in 
general,  would  prefer  the  produ£lions  of 
their  own  country,  to  thofe  of  Europe, 
L 


■i±i  Th'E  COUNTRY  l^YER's 

But,  greatly  to  our  injury,  cloths  of  this 
country  too  generally,  have  not  been  proper- 
ly treated  in  dying  and  drefling.  One  rca- 
fon  is  becaufe  many  .who  pretend  to  be  work- 
mtn  are  intirely  ignorant  of  colours,  their 
combinations  and  the  phvQcal  qualities  of 
dyeftuffs.  Another  reafon,  that  may  be  ren* 
dered  for  this  impofiticn,  is,  becaufe  many 
attempt  to  drcfs  cloth  before  they  are  ac- 
quainted with  the  bufinefs  and  of  confe- 
quence  never  acquire  a  fuitable  knowledge 

of  it.  It  would  greaily  jironnote  the  interj. 
eft:  of  the  nation,  as  well  as  that  of  individu- 
als, were  no  peifonto  a.ttmp'  the  dying  and 
dreffing  of  cloths,  ur.til  he .  had  obtained 
fuitable  information,  by  inilrudtion  and  ex- 
perience. Gentlemen,  of  iittrary  a:quire- 
-ments,  who  have  turned  their  attention  to 

chymical  analjfis,  acknOAvkdge  that  tr,e  art 
«of dying  is  as  difficult  as  it.is  ullfu'. 

A  great  proportion  of  the  people,  being 
ignorant  of  the  clothiers  andjdyfrs  art,  have. 

been  fatisfied  with  the  workmen,  they  em- 
ploy   thoigh    their     goods     have  fufFered 


ASSISTANT  u?) 

rhrough  the  ignpraficej  orfraui  of  the  dyev 
end  clothier. 

If  the  goods  prefcnt  a  flafh  and  finical  col- 
our andcome  i\i(fi  fiomthe  prefsi  many  peo» 
pie  fuppofe  thattheyare  well  drellcd.  But  the 
ftiffncf-,  which  the  cljth  has  acquired  from  a 
a  warm  and  clofe  prefs-,  is  dcfigned,  merely, 
to  conceal  the  faults  of  the  clothier. 

If  people  will  only  obfcrve,  they  will  find, 
on  wearing  fuch  goods,  that  the  colour  will 
foon  fade  ;  the  clo  h  will  become  rough  and 
coarfe  j  whereas  if  the  cloth  had  been  well 
coloured  anJ  drcfled,  it  would  have  worn 
finooth,  fo  long  as  the  garment  would  remain 
whole  and  decent.  For  general  information 
it  may  be  nccelTary  to  point  out  fome  further 
direftions,  which  any  peiTon,  on  viewing  a 
piece  of  cloth,  may  determine,  whether  it  be 
well  coloured  or  not. 

0/ cchurs -f  fome^refleft  a  beautiful  luftre 
f/om  the^xtremetjes  of  the  nap,  that  israifed 
on  cloths.  Others  pre  fent  a  beautiful  body 
from  the  grain  of  .the  cloth  j   but  afford  no 

luftre. 


t^4  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Thofc  which  aflForda  luftrc,  or  refleft  the 
rays  of  light  that  incidentally  fall  upon  them, 
are  Deep  blue,  Black,  Navy  blue.  Cinna- 
mons, London  browns,  Clarets,  Snuff  browns, 
Saxon  green.  Bottle  green,  Olive  grien  and 
Purple. 

Thefe  are  full  colours,  and  if  well  dyed, 
by  calling  the  eye  towards  the  light,  level 
with  the  cloth,  the  hairs,  or  wool  that  rife  up-, 
on  it ;  will  appear  bright  and  lively  j  as  if 
the  rays  of  light  fhone  through  ihem.  Thofe 
colours  which;  by  this  experiment,  appear 
faint  and  languid,  you  may  determine  have 
not  received  their  caiiplcment  of  dyeftuff 
and  are  not  well  coloured. 

Scarlet  affords  no  luftrc ;  but  if  well  dyed,. 
the  body  of  the  cloth  will  lock  glaring,  bear- 
ing (lightly  on  the  Orange. 

Crimfon  prefents  no  luftre ;  but,  if  well 
done,  it  gives  a  beautiful  body. 

Barfy  Red  produces  a  luftre  and  glares, 
full  of  the  Blazon. 

There  are  many  ffiadcs  of  different  colours, 
which  give  no  luftre,  yet  they  ftiould  app«ar 
clear  and  bright.     It  is   ncceffary   that  the 


ASSlSTANTi  i-*ij 

'iycfhould  equally  penetrate  the  pores  of  the 
wool ;  then  the  cloth,  with  few  exceptions  as 
to  colour,  if  well  dreffed,  will  appear  handi 
Ibme.  But  if  the  cloth  have  not  well  receiv- 
ed the  colour;  if  ic  appear  daubed,  it  wili 
difcover  the  fraud,  or  ignorance  of  the  dyer. 
If  it  be  poorly  dreflfed,  however  good  the  col- 
O'jr,  the  cloth  v/iU  never  afford,  even  a  de- 
cent appearance. 

General  ohfervations. 

You  will  obferve  the  common  direftions^ 
in  this  work,  are  given  for  colouring  a  cer^ 
tain  number  of  yards.  The  dciign  is  to  ac- 
comodare  the  dyer,,  who  frequently  wifties  to 
take  cloth,  diredtly  from  the  mill,  bei'bre  ic 
is  dry. 

To  take  our  cloth,    on  a  medium,   when 

fulled,  twenty  yards  will  weigh  about  four- 

teer,  or  fifceen  pounds.     Thus  the  dyer  may 

proceed,   by  weight,  or  meafure,  in  all  thofe 

dyes   where  the  prefcription   is  for  twenty 

yards;  but  where  a   particular  weight,    of 

goods.  Is  mentioned  in  the  prefcription,  for 

feme  colours,  it  muH  be  (liidly  obferved, 
L    2 


tiS  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Wool  in  the  fleece,  or  before  ic  is  fpun, 
and  yarn  that  is  to  be  coloured,  muft  be 
weighed,  in  order  to  proportion  the  dyeftuff. 

Before  wc  proceed  to  reduce  dyes  to  fmall 
quantities  j  obferve  that  no  iron  veffel  may 
be  employed,  excepring  for  the  black  dye. 

Small  dyes  require  a  larger  propoition  of 
dycftufip.  They  may,  however,  be  reduced 
to  one  quart  and  will  produce  as  good  col- 
ours as  thofe  which  contain  fixty  gallons. 

Be  careful  never  to  crowd  them  with  goods 
fo  much,  but  that  they  may  freely  fwim  ia 
the  liquor. 

Thirty  fix  yards  of  full  cloth,  or  twenty 
five  pounds  of  goods  is  fufficient  for  fevcniy 
gallons  of  dye.  The  fame  proportions  fhould 
be  obfirved  in  fmailcr  quantities. 

Wool  in  the  fleece  muft  be  well  clcanfed,. 
before  it  i«  coloured.  The  dye  muft  be  well 
ilrained  from  wcod,  bark  and  fedament,  be- 
fore the  wool  is  entered  ;  if  this  be  neglefted, 
the  wool  willbe  tangled  which  will  greatly 
injure  it. 

For  the  fenne  reafons  yarn  in  the  (kein. 
ii«uld  nevf  r  be  dipped  until  the  dye  is  thus 


ASSISTANT.  127 

cleanfcd.  Yarn  for  dying  fhould  be  put  on 
fmall  bows  made  for  that  purpose.  Three 
or  four  run,  may  be  placed  on  a  bow  or  ac- 
cording to  the  bult  of  the  yam.  Bows  arc 
convenient,  both  to  plunge  the.  yarn  and  to 
keep  it  mo.ving,  while  in  the  dye,  which 
is  ne  ccffary  to  its  equally  receiving  the  col- 
our. 

To  colour  wool  it  will  be  convenient  to 
cnclofe  it,  icofely,  in  a  net  bag.  Then  you 
may  eafily  take  it  up  from  the  dye,  to  cool, 
to  pick  open  for  dipping  again.  And  this 
is  ncceffary  that  the,  colour  may  be  cveno 
Wool  will  receive  all  colours  that  may  be 
imprcffed  on  cloths.  The  dying  of  wool  is 
convenient  for  mixing  colours. 

Prefcripiions  for  reducing  the  following  dyes^ 
to  a  quantity f  which  may  be  required,  /« 
colour  a  found  ofwocllenjiiiff, 

Nsvy  blue. 

One  pound  of  goods  requires  two  ounces 
•f  Copperas,  fix  ounces  0^  Logwood,  an*, 
three  gallons  of  water* 


THE  COUNTRY  DYER'a 

Black. 

Three  ounces  of  Copperas,  one  quart  oC 
yellow  oak  bark,  one  quart  of  Alder  bark 
and  half  a  pound   of  Logwood    with   thre& 

gallons  of  water. 

« 
Cinnamon  and  London  browns. 

One  half  pound  of  Camwood  one  tea- 
fpoonful  of  oil  vitriol  and  t»vo  of  Roman  vit- 
riol, with  Copperas  fufficient  to   darken    to 
the  fhade  required,  with    three  gallons  of 
water. 

Sayon  green. 

Twelve  ounces  ofFuftick,  three  of  Alunij 
and  three  gallons  of  water;  then  add,  in  ve» 
r/  fmall  q'-iahrities,  of  the  conn  pound  oil  and 
Indigo,  till  the  colour  rifes  to  your  wifti. 

Scarlet. 

Two  ouncei  and  one  quarter  of  an  ounce 
Aquafortis,  one  ounce  of  Cochineal,  half  an 
ounce  of  granulated  tin,  two  drachms  Sala-> 
moniach,OBe  drachm  Saltpetre,  a  tcs-lpoonfui 


ASSISTANT.  2(9 

(. 

of fcrmcrech  and  half  a  pound  of  wheat 
bran  with  three  gallons  of  water  and  fix 
drachms  Cream-tartan 

Crimfon. 

Three  ounce  of  Alum,  one  ounce  and  one 
drachm  of  Cochineal,  half  a  pound  of  wheat 
bran  and  three  gallons  of  water  with  fix. 
jirachms  Cream-tartar. 

Purple, 

Firft  make  it  a  crimfon  then  dip  in  a  good 
urine  vat. 

Tellow, 

Three  ounces  of  Alum,  three  gallons  of 
water  ;  then  c^ip  in  Termcrcch  liquor  till 
the  (hade  you  defign  is  obtained. 

Thefe  are  the  principle  dyes,  which  peo- 
ple in  common  will,  at  prefent,  wifh  to  re- 
duce to  fo  fmall  a  quantity.  You  muft 
proceed  with  them  according  to  the  dire6lions 
given  on  the  large  fcale.  From  the  forego- 
ing ii^f/^^i  you  find  that  a  fmall  quantity  of 
dye,  requires  a  larger  proportion  of  dycftufF. 


K.I1     ftki. 


iS*  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

Of  thoje  cdourii  which  will  en^^ur;  ?;;.'. 

Thefe  areas,  fo.  ow£,  Deep  >..i 
us  fhades,  Navy  bJ'Ji,  black,  Cinnamon, 
London  brown,  Snuff  brown,  Crimron,  Mad- 
der red,  Pink,  Purple,  Claret  v»ith  Redwot)d, 
drabs  and  afli.  Thefe  obfervations-are  inferr- 
ed, in  order  to  accommodate  people,  who 
would  wifh  to  mix  any  of  ihefe  colours,  in 
the  wool,  for  cloth  that,  may  pafs  through 
the  mill. 

The  method  for  fr  sparing  felts  for  trial. 

**  This  little  manoeuvre  is  evry  fimple, 
**  but  very  ufcful,  as  by  it  you  will  be  enn- 
"  bled  to  judge,  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  what 
*'  the  ftufF  will  be  after  it  is  maufidlured, 
**  and  fLven  entirely  drefled.  For  this  pur- 
"pofe  you' take  wool  of  different  colours, 
"  and  having  accurately  weighed  each,  the 
^^  mixture  is  made  with  the  fingers  in  what 
"proportions  ycu  thir.k  proper;  but  the 
**  whole  in  fuch  a  fmiali  quantity,  that  the 
*' mixture  when  finifhed,  is  no  bigger  thasthe 
•  fjzeofyoiir  hand.  It  is  thcnmoiflened  w'lh  . 


ASSISTANT.  J 13: 

^'  a  little  oil,  and  carded  with  fmall  cards  till 

*^  the  colours  are   blended  together  and  per« 

*' fedly    well    mixed  j   you  then  take  this 

"  woo!,  which  is  exceedingly  loofe,   and  in 

"  th«  fquare  (iiape  of  the    cards  j    you    fold 

*'  this  in  fo'jr,  and  prefs    it  lightly  between 

^'  the^hands.     It   is  then  dipped  in  a   flrong 

"  fo'ution  of  foap  in  cold  water ;   it  is  again 

**  taken  out  and  fqueezed  hard  between  the 

*'  hands  ar  feveral  times,  fometimes  clapping 

'*  it  from  one  hand  to  the  other.     It  is  after- 

'*  wards  rubbed  lightly  betv/een   the  hands, 

"  by  which  means  it  is  in  fomede^gree  felted. 

"  It  is  again  foaked  in  foap  and  water,  again 

«*  fulled,  till  it  has  acquired  a  proper   confift- 

*'  ence  refemblins;  that  of  doih.   Tthis  Fck 

"  is  then  a  perfed  pattern  of  wh^t  the  cloth 

"  will  be  when-  manufaftured  :  For  if  the 

'^  wool  has  been  properly  fpread  in  the  hands 

*'  after  carding,    and  carefully  .managed,  it 

"  will  be  as  even  j;s  cloth.     To  complete  the 

"  refembhnce  after  it  has    been  wafbed,   ift 

"  order  to  clecr.fe  ic  from  the  foap,  it  fliould 

*' be  d.-iedj  and  having  pyt   it  betv-een  't>vs 

'■^  papers,  pre CTed  with  a  hot  iron* 


j^t  THE  COUNTRY  DYEK'j 

The  previous  fuggeftions  are  offered,  thtt 
workmen  may  fuit  themfelves  in  mixing  col- 
ours. Europeans,  apprifed  of  our  encreafing 
manufaftories,  attempt;  to  baffle  our  attempts, 
by  impofing  on  us  mixed  cloths,  as  fafhion- 
able.  They  are  fenfible  that  the  younger 
look,  to  the  older  nations,  for  the  pattern  of 
their  garments  and  for  the  faihionable  col- 
ours of  their  cloths.  For  this  reafon,  Euro- 
f  eans,  frequently  change  or  mix  their  col- 
ours to  retain  our  adherancc  to  their  mar- 
kets. 


CHAP.    XXXVIII, 

^be  cultivatim  of  Teafch, 

EASELS  are  nccelTary  to 
drefs cloth  neatly;  without  them,  a  good 
nap  on  fine  cloth,  cannot  be  handlomely 
raifed.  This  plant  is  eafily  cultivated.  Itg 
feeds  refemble  thofe  of  the  Burdock.  They 
Should  be  fown  early  in  the  fpring,  in  moifl"? 


ASSISTANT.  131 

rich  ground.  They  fliould  be  placed  in 
roes,  about  eight  inches  apart.  Cultivate, 
and  thin  thcnn,  when  the  (lock  has  acquired 
fix  or  feven  leaves.  Before  winter,  cover 
them  with  brufh  for  their  prefervation.  The 
next  fpring  take  up  and  then  fee  thenn  three 
feet  apart  i  keep  down  weeds,  and  hoe  them 
as  other  garden  plants.  In  the  courfe  of  the 
fecond  feafon,  fomeofthem  will  arrive  to 
maturity  •  the  remainder  fhould  ftand  fot 
another  feafon^  then  they  will  conne  to  their 
perfeflion. 

Teafcls  rife  about  three  feet,  from  the 
icarth  and  branch  out  in  various  dire6lions» 
Each  branch  contain  a  bur  about  the  liae  of 
a  hen's  egg.  This  bur  is  full  of  little  thorns, 
which  turn  down  toward  the  ftock,  like  card 
teeth. 

After  the  blofom  ts  fallen  they  fliould  be 
gathered  for  ufe,  with  about  eight  inches  of 
the  ftem.  When  the  Teafels  are  dryed,  fe- 
cure  them  from  rats ;  as  they  would  foon 
deftroy  them.  They  produce  largely.  I 
havetaken  eighty  heads,  or  burs  from  ^  ': 
italk.  To  prepare  them  to  na^  clo:h, 
M 


ri54  THE  COUNTRY  QYER'i 

line  a  number  of  them  in  a  hand,  made  fer 
that  pui?pore.  This  -is  a  fti  k  containing 
two  fmall  mortices  afide  each  other.  In  thcfc, 
flats-are  incertcd;  bccwern  \vhii;h  the  Item 
of  the  TeafcU'  are  placed.  A  [ir'wtz  is  then 
to  te  drawn  from  ea*.h  end  of  the  flat*;, 
through  a  gain  cut  in  ihe  end  of  ihe  fir  Tt, 
or  handle,  to  confine  the  Teafeis.*  A,  :nd 
■thus  made  will  prefent  yoa  the  fori.:  oi  a 
iemicirclc. 

£very  clothier   ihouM   alfo    be   furnifted 
with  a  plane,   to  clear  the  cloth  of  duft  and 
hairs  after  it  is  fhorne  j   and  to  lay   the  nap 
for  prcffing. 

It  is  made  from  a  board,   of  thin  plank, 
of  hard  wood.     It  fhould  be  eighteen  inches 
long  and  fix  in   breadth,   a  little  crowning, 
on  the  face,  with  a  handle,  at  each  end, 
made  faft  to  the  plain.     The  face  fhould 
be  hacked,  to  retain  the  cement,   which  is 
glue  laid  on,  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Fill  this- glue  with  tranfparent  glafs,  grofcly 
pounded.     Sift  out  that  which  is  powdered 
and  take  off  ail  large  pieces;  that  to  be  em- 
ployed, though  of  various  forms,  flioiild  be 


as  large  as  fmall  fhot.     Lay   thefc  on  the 
glue,  which  is   fpread,  on  the  face  of  the 
plane.  The  glafsfliould  be  equally  diftribut- 
ed,  when  the  glue  is  warm  j  then  prefs  thc- 
glafs  down  to  the  furface  of  th«  glue,  being 
fpread,  fo  as  nearly,  tO'  cover  it.     When  the 
glue  becomes  cold,  the  glafs  will  be  fo  fixed 
as  to  make  an  impreffion  upon  iron,  and  if. 
the  plane  be  well   made  it  will  laft  many/ 
years,  without  renc*  ing. 


CHAP.     XXXIX. 
0/  the  Shear 'Board . 


Ti 


HERE  are  various  ways,  by 
which  it  is  conftru€led.  Some  prefer  a  ioft, 
others  a  hatd  cuOiion.  A  medium  is  the 
befl.  The  moft  convenient  and  durable 
Shear- Bo  jrd  is  con  drafted  in  the  follo\^ing 
iim pie  manner,  Firft  take  a  pattern  from 
the  leger,  or  under  blade  of  the  Ihears,  by 
placing  a   thin  board  parallel  with  it^  an^ 


•j.36  THE  COUNTRY  DYER's 

then  marking  the  besd  of  the  leger  on  the 
boa;^  J  afjer  this  cut  out  the  board,  exaclly, 
to  the  line.  By  this  pattern  fix  four  or  five 
pieces  of  flicwork  fo  long  as  you  defign,  for 
the  widch  of  ^-our  board.  Then  take  clear 
white  pine  boards;  after  jointing  them  plane 
one  fide  and  wet  it  wi;h  water  j  then  lav  the 
rough  fide  to  the  fire,  which  will  warp  it. 
When  the  board  is  lufficiently  fprung,  nail 
it  to  the  pieces  of  flitworkj  apiece  fhould 
be  placed  to  each  end,  and  the  others  at  e- 
qual  diftances  between  them.  After  the 
boards  are  thus  nailed,  joint  them,  exa<5lly, 
to  the  pattern.  This  being  done,  cover  the 
Shear-Board,  with  a  bat,  or  chufhion  made 
of  wool.  Take  the  length  and  width  of  the 
furface,  on  which,  you  intend  the  fhears  to  ' 
more.  Employ  a  hatcer  to  bow  the  wool 
for  the  cuftiion,  that  it  may  be  even.  If  it 
be  three  fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  it  will  an- 
fwer.  It  fhould  be  dry  when  matted  togath- 
cr;  after  this  put  it  on  the  board  and  draw 
your  covering  clofely  over  it.  Leather  is 
the  bed  covering  j  it  will  laft  mufc  longer 


ASSISTANT.  a3jf  ; 

:hm  cloth  and  preferve  your  goods,   fionn 
lint,  whilj  Ihearing,  . 

A  Shear-Board  made  according  to  thefedi-- 
retflions  will  aJmit  the  leger  of  theftiears  e- 
quially  to  the  cloth  ;   and  they  will  cue  from- 
heel  to  point  without  any  trouble  ;  whi'e  oth- 
er boards  are  frequently   out  of  order  atid 
caufc  the  cloth  to  be  (beared  unequally. 

For  this  improvemeit  of  the  bhear-Board, 
I  aoi  indebted  to  the  ingenuity  of  Mr.  Na* 
THAN  Smith,  a  gentleman,  who  is  diftin- 
guifhed  by  his  improvements  of  mechanic 
arts.  . 


C  H  A  P.     XL. 

Further  remarks  on  dyejluff, 

X  OR  a  great  proportion  of  the 

iiigrcdients  employed  in  dyes,  we  depeftd  on 

Europfctofurnifli.    With  Europeans,  it  is  an 

important  objedt,  to  bring  us  their  fa6lories, 

for  all  the  cloathing  we  need.    As  we  at- 
M  2 


138  THE  COUNTRY  DYER'. 

tempt  an  independence  of  their  markets,  they 
increafetbeir  duties  on  dyeftufFs  which  we  im- 
port. Not  one  cafk,  of  Cochineal,  can  we  ob- 
tain from  our  Gfter  continent,  South- America ; 
from  thence  it  muft  pop  through  the  hands 
of  Spain  and  England,     From  England  we 
receive   it,   at  an  extravagant  price.      The 
dye  woods,  which  abound  in  their  Iflands  we 
cannot  obtain  without  paying  heavy  duties. 
Foreign  nations  receive  a  large  revenue  frora 
this  country,  for   the  dyeftuffs  we    import. 
Does  it  become  an    independent  nation,   to 
\)t  thus   dependent   on  others,  for  articles, 
which,  perhaps,  may    abound  in   our  own 
country  ?     Or  fhall   we,   without  enquiry, 
conclude  that  nature  has  denied  us  thefc  ar- 
ticles i    being  partial  in   the  diftribution  of 
her  favours  ?  The  Indigo  weed  is  a  native  of 
this  country  )  and  for  many  )ears  has  been 
the  only  article  for  dyes  that  has  been  export- 
ed, towards  ballancing  the  imports  of  other 
dyeftufF.     Of  late,  the  flirub  Sumach  em- 
ployed, to  lay  the  ground,  in  paper-flaining, 
has  been  ground  in  mills,  conftrufted  for  that 
purpofr,  put  in  cafks   and  fen:  to   Europe. 
T;his  affords  a  hand'^ome  profit. 


ASSISTANT.  199, 

We  have  various  plants,  weeds  and  roots, 
whith  produce  a  yellow.     Among  thefe   are 
the  root  of  the  upland  Dock  the  herb  Peters- 
wort  J  but  in  a  particlur   manner   the   ASf- 
mart  gives  a  yellow  that  is  beautiful.     If  fer- 
encnted,  before  it  is  employed  in  dying,   it 
will  imprefs  a  permanet  colour.    The  Woad 
of  Europe  ufed  in  dyes  is  prepared  by  a  che- 
micial^roccfs,  and  produces  a  large  revenue; 
undoubtedly  the  AflTmart  which,  in  the  north- 
ern ftztes  is  troublefome    to  farmers,   might 
become  profitable  to  them  and  our  country 
were  it  fuitably  prepared  for  a  dyeflufr.     Its  . 
e*traft  is  highly  charged  with  acids  and  veg-- 
itable  falts. 

If  our  government  fliould  confider  it  wor- 
thy their  attention,  to  encourage  fome  able 
chemift  to  explore  the  qualities  of  oui-  foflils, 
woods,  barks,  (hrubs,  pknts,  roots,  weeds 
and  minerals,  perhaps,  the  advantages,  our 
rifing  nation  might  derive,  would  foon  in.i 
demnify  us  for  the  extra  expenfe. 

THE    END# 


THE    IN  D  E  X. 


CHAP.  PAG£, 

I  OF.  vejfels  and  utinfils  employed  in 

^y^ng 9 

fi  -  Remarks  on  dyejiuffs 14 

3     Recipe  for  the  blue  dye,  or  Indigo  vat,  25 

4-.  For  Navy  blue.       .  * 3^ 

5.  For  Raven  blacki  or  Crow  colour,     ,  37 

—  For  black 3^ 

6  For  lisiht  and  dark  cinnamon.  Lon- 

don  bronnj  and  Britijh.mud.  .  40 

7  For  Saxon  green, 43 

—  B)ttle  green. 45 

8  For  Saxon  blue,     .     .      ...      .46 

9  For  Snu^  brown '     ,  47 

iQ  For  Scarlet.     .      ......  49 

. —  Barry  red  and. Orange 53 

II  For  Crimfon 54 

I  %  for  Madder  red,    ......  56 

^^  For  Fink  colour,     .•.';»«  57 


I  N  D  E  X. 

14  For  purple •     •     •     S9 

15  Claret  from  Redwood 61 

16  Buffy  or  cream  colour &Z 

17  Jjh  colour y  with  Nutgals,     •     .      .64 

—  Slate  colour 66 

18  For  For efi  drab ibid. 

19  For  Sage  green 68 

20  Piiarl  colour. 69 

21  For  aark  drab  brown 71 

22  Olive  green *  74 

—  Sea  green  and  Fawn  colour.     .     .  'j2 

23  Tallow '74 

24  Olive  brown y^ 

'—-  Obfervations.     , yy 

25  Of  whitening  woolen  cloth,     ...  78 

26  On  mixing  colours  thret  by  three..     .  7^ 

27  For  dying  and  drefftng  Fnfiiany  cotton 

and  linen. 81 

—  Dark  OlivQ,  green  on  linen  and  coitcn.     84 

28  Blue  dye  for  linen  and  cotton.     .     .85' 

—  the  ftcond  procefs  for  blue  on  linen 

and  cotton 88 

—  Th\ri  procefs  for  bkue;  on  cotten  and 

linen,  with  Logwood.     ...     9(5 


INDEX. 

±9  lO'dye  thread  purpUy  olive  hrewn  and 

block 52 

3©  To  d)e  thread,  red  and  green,     .     .  93^ 

31  Por  dying  ftlk 95- 

—  To /often  watAr  that  is  bard  or  im- 

prdgnated   "with  Minerals,      .   103 

32  Dinifion:  to  preferve  dyejluff,     ,     .  ibid. 
22  Remarks  on  milling  or  fulling  cloths^  104^ 

34  Of  /hearing  clolhs.     ,     ,     .     .     .110 

35  Ohhrvations  onprefjing  clcth,     ,     .112 
2^  Of  Jorting  wooly  for  cloth.     ,     ,     .114- 
37  Ttf  know  when  cloth  is  well  dreffed,  \io. 

—  General  ghfervatiom 125. 

^—  Prefcriptions  for  reducing    dyes,     .  127 

—  Of  ihofe  calour^y  which  will  endure 

fftilUng.      ,     , 130. 

—  The  method  of  preparing  fells  for  trial,  ibid 
38'  Cultivatien  ofXeaJels 132 

39  Of  the  Shear-Boar d»      ....       1.35- 

40  Further  remarks  on  dy (fluff, .    ,     .       137- 


ERRATA.      ^ 

PAGE  17  line  tenth  for  a/aw  read  fw*w.— — Pago 
.■'3.  line  fixicffnih,  tot  eN/jadienii  r^dd  in^redt(vts» 
m  .  Fdge  iiBlme  tweniythrce  foi  /oaw  rcad  ^>o»n, — ■i- 
AlTo  Pdg:  109  the  fifth  liae  from  thcbouoBimiert/H>' 
'«fccr  anlwer* 


